West Face

Approach

Not really a climb of the West Face, this is more of a traverse across the easier lower half to gain the SW Ridge.This is probably the quickest route to the summit of Tenaya Peak, and often used as a descent route for climbs of the NW Buttress.

The approach is very easy, no more than a few hundred yards. From the parkinglot east of Tenya Lake, head south around the eastern shore of the lake. The non-trivial creek crossing here is the most challenging part of the approach.

Route Description

There is an uneven ledge lined with trees about a third of the way up the West Face that runs across the right side. The goal is to gain this ledge, hike to the far right hand side, and then climb onto the SW Ridge. There are two class 2 access point to the ledge shown in this photo. The easier and more direct of the two is on the right.

From the eastern shore of Tenya Lake, head south, up talus (more consolidated talus is found to the left of the loose stuff). Head for some class 2-3 slabs that reach up to the tree-lined ledge. Follow the ledge to the right. Class 2 boulders lead up to the SW Ridge. A bit to the left of the boulder route is an interesting class 3 chute that be climbed to a point somewhat higher on the ridge.

Once at the ridge, look for a use trail that will take you around the south side of the SW Ridge to the summit.

If using for a descent, follow the use trail that begins shortly after you climb down the south side of the summit blocks. It heads in a SW direction well above Mildred Lake, and curves around to the edge of the SW chute after about a third of a mile. This should put you in the vicinity of the boulders leading down to the ledge on the West Face. Follow the ledge until you can drop down via some slabs to the talus below.

Essential Gear

None needed.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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