Mazama Glacier Headwall

Approach

The approach is via the Bird Creek Meadows parking lot at 5,700 feet. Ask for directions at the ranger station in Trout Lake. First hike up 1 mile to the viewpoint. Now find the trail heading towards the Mazama Glacier. Hike 2.3 more miles to get to Sunrise Camp at 8,300 feet at the base of the Mazama Glacier. Establish Camp here with access to Glacial runoff.

Route Description

The route ascends directly up the Mazama Glacier skirting crevasses along the way. At about 11,300 feet, you want to go directly up the steep headwall which finishes at the south summit, in lieu of connecting with the south climb. The headwall was only one pitch, but the slope reached 65 degrees, with lots of exposure right off the Klickitat Icefall.

At the top of the headwall, there may be crevasses to deal with. In mid August, we had to get inside a crevasse then climb the 15 foot high slightly overhanging ice wall to get out. Once above this, you will see the south summit next to you, and will get a view of the main summit. Now finish on the standard south side trail.

Essential Gear

Standard glacier gear, pickets, a couple screws, two ice tools, crampons, and a helmet.

Miscellaneous Info

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