South Ridge/Face

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 43.76723°N / 110.74419°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Rock Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: II 5.9+ or 5.6 A1
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach

From the boat dock on the west side of Jenny Lake, walk up a few meters to the intersection with the Valley Trail and turn right. Cross a stream and in 200m reach the junction with the Horse Trail (clearly signed). Turn left on the Horse Trail heading uphill into Cascade Canyon. After about one-half mile, Baxter's Pinnacle will be seen through the trees on the slope to the north. Continue a short distance further to where the Horse Trail makes a turn to the left. Here, an overgrown but distinct climber's trail will be found leading up towards the Pinnacle. Hike up through the forest on this trail to reach the talus slope below the Pinnacle. Follow switch-backs through the talus to reach the base of the South Ridge.

Route Description

The route consists of 6 pitches, although intermediate belays can often be obtained. From the upper end of the talus slope, scramble up an obvious gully for 5m to gain the right side of the ridge proper and a ledge. The first official pitch starts here, so a rope may be desired from this point. It is quicker, however, to climb the first two pitches before roping up, since they are mostly 4th class. Pitch 1 (5.1) -- Climb straight up, keeping to the right of the ridge crest over mostly 4th class terrain with big ledges, following the path of least resistance, to reach a ledge below a steep face with 2 bolts This face is called Seizure Disorder and is a 5.10 variation for Pitch 2. Pitch 2 (5.1) -- Move up left towards the ridge crest along a ramp, then move back right, passing a tree to belay on a ledge below steeper terrain. Alternatively, climb Seizure Disorder to reach the same point. Fixed pins can be seen in the cracks above and there is a large flake which forms a sort of small chimney/right-facing corner which can be seen higher on the next pitch. Pitch 3 (5.6-5.8) -- Climb the steep crack system above, passing fixed pins and heading towards the aforementioned flake. The face to the left of the flake offers the easiest line (5.6), using the flake itself as a right handhold. The thin cracks to the right of the flake can also be climbed at 5.8 and are useful for passing slower parties. Either way, reach a belay ledge very near the ridge crest, with a huge 10m chimney above and right. Pitch 4 (5.6-5.7) -- Climb up the chimney passing fixed pins (5.6) to reach easier ground, or cross to the left side of the ridge and climb a huge left-facing corner system using any of several hand-fist cracks (5.7). Belay on the ridge crest at the start of a long section of 4th class terrain. Pitch 5 (4.0) -- Scramble along the ridge crest or slightly on the right of the crest to the base of the summit tower. This section is very easy. Pitch 6 (5.6 A1 or 5.9+) -- Start below an obvious crack with a fixed pin (which can be backed up with a small stopper). Start in the crack, then shift right on crimpers (5.9+, crux), using a good sloper for the right foot and move up to reach better hand holds and a stance. Climb up over easier terrain past a detached flake to a steep left-slanting ramp/corner and lieback up past fixed pins to the final steep moves to the summit (5.7). There is a 5.10- variation to this pitch called Gill which climbs to the left of the normal route past a very rusty bolt. Descent -- Make one 75 ft rappel from bolts off the summit into the notch to the north. Several one-pitch routes are found along the rappel line including North Face (5.10) and Northwest Corner (5.8). From the notch, walk down the steep couloir on the west side of the pinncale (4th class) and back to the base of the South Ridge.

Essential Gear

60m Single Rope Light Alpine Rack (Stoppers, 3-5 Cams to 2", 6-8 runners) Helmet Ice Axe/Crampons (early season only for descent)

Miscellaneous Info

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Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.