North Face

Approach

Start at the Blue Lake Trailhead and hike up about 1.25 miles until the first clearing. Find the path ascending up to the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. Hike all the way up to the high point of the notch then stash your packs. The start of the route is about 20 feet to the west of here.

Route Description

Pitch 1 - Climb the obvious 75 degree gulley on good holds to the flat spot, about 80 feet. The crack in the gulley takes lots of midsize protection. The flake ascending up to the left is 5.5, and going directly up the Dihedral is about 5.7/5.8. Move to your left at the ledge to the tree. Belay here at the rap slings, or rope drag will be a big problem. 5.5

Pitch 2 - Ascend the crack system to the left on awkward holds and moves. Another well protected pitch with mid sized cams. Move to your right at the ledge, and belay at the rap slings. 5.6

Pitch 3 - We climbed the lieback handcrack directly from the belay, which is harder than going around. The crack takes pro very well. Climb to just below the summit block, then belay from the tree. 5.7 Note: if you are short the exit move out of the crack will seem much harder.

Pitch 3+ - Climb the 15 foot 5.6, unprotectable summit block while on belay with a one handed spot from your partner. There is huge exposure all the way down the southwest face. Belay your partner up from the summit slings.

Down - With 2 60 meter ropes the route can be done in 2 raps, the second being about 57 meters. Break it up at the belay for pitch #2. The route can also be decended with 1 60 meter rope using 4 raps.

Equipment

50 or 60 meter rope(s). Active and passive pro to 3". 24 and 48 inch slings.

Images

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