Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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39.06550°N / 72.00080°E |
Route Type:
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Technical Alpine Climb |
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Time Required:
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Expedition |
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Difficulty:
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Class 4-5, Ice and Rock |
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Approach
You will be starting from the Moskvin glacier. It is a common location for base camps of exibitions climbing to Peak Communisma and Peak Korjenevskoy. Typically climbers are dropped to the Moskvin base camp by helicopters from Dushanbe. Base camp is located at 4200m.
Route Description
This route was first climbed by V. Tsetkin in 1966.
From the Moskvin field (base camp), you will follow the path along the torrent that descends from the glacier on the southern side of the mountain. Continue to the right and cross the Moskvin glacier.
Continue along the rock and debris ridge until the slope becomes less steep. Here at about 5,100m you can set up Camp 1.
Proceed along the glacier slope that descends on the southern side of the mountain. The glacier is steep so rope, crampons, ice axes and ice screws are required. Then the incline again becomes less steep and the route approaches the morraine. Here at 5,300m is another good place to set up Camp 1. It is more comfortable with a spectacular view of the entire route.
You then go up the glacier along a slope that is not very steep. At the beginning of the season the glacier is covered with snow, while at the end deep crevasses open up. As you continue, mountain face becomes steeper, leading to a triangle of rocks where you can set up Camp 2 (5,800m) on a snowy terrace under an overhanging roof.
The route continues to the right, up to the little col with a 1,000m crossing on ice that requires crampons, ice axes, rope and ice pitons. This is one of the most difficult and technical parts of the entire route. Usually a fixed rope is to be found there. The crossing ends on a rather gentle incline that arrives at the col on the southern ridge (6,100m). You can pitch Camp 2 here as well but there is space only for a few tents. Then you must tackle a small fifty-meter tall face of steep rocks where there is a fixed rope. You come out on the snow ridge, which is long and easy but may be tiring because of the many ups and downs; this leads to the top. There is no need for crampons here as the snow gets soft, so ski poles should be sufficient. Camp 3, where you will also stop on the way back down, can be set up either at 6,400 or 6,700m.
From the Camp 3, continue to climb by the ridge until you reach the summit.
The descent from the summit normally takes 24 hours.
Essential Gear
- Expedition equiment is normally provided by the guide service if you use one. If you plan this ascent on your own, bring everything essential to set up a base camp for up to 4 weeks.
- Winter outdoors gear: 4 season tent, sleeping bag, clothing.
- Alpine climbing gear: ice axe, 12pt. crampons, ice screws and pitons, harness, rope, helmet.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.