Approach
The north summit is not the highpoint of Tresidder Peak. Still, the north summit provides a sporting scramble, and is often the first step for climbers traversing Tresidder's exciting summit ridge.
There are two standard approaches to the base of the north summit. The more popular one has climbers leaving the JMT south of Tresidder Peak, then ascending class 2 slabs to the lowpoint of the saddle between Columbia Finger and Tresidder Peak. A more difficult, but more direct route from the north, directly ascends Tresidder's 1000-foot North Ridge from the south shore of Upper Cathedral Lake. The lower 800 feet are a walkup, while the last 200 feet are mixed class 2/3.
Route Description
There are many routes to the summit of the North summit. The easiest route seems to be 30' of friction (45°+) on the northwest side of the north summit. snwburd notes: "Sam and I climbed the North Arete from the NW and found it pretty straightforward class 4 (and pretty easy, other than the airiness of it along the top). I tried to downclimb the SE side in my hiking shoes, but that was a bit scary and I backed off (or rather, up). The rock is uncomfortably loose and it didn't seem wise to trust any single hold."
Essential Gear
Hardly long enough to bother protecting on the way up. If you must, a couple medium nuts or small cams. No bolts on the summit, but rappels may be possible by girth-hitching large flakes.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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