The Blümlisalphorn is the highest summit of the small Blüemlisalp-Massif in the central Bernese Oberland.
It was first climbed in 1860 by R Liveing, L Stephen, J Stone, M Anderegg, F Ogi, P Simond.
The standard route (NW ridge) is rated AD but the peak is more notable for its North face, a 500m snow/ice wall which is a good first Alpine North face climb (rating: D).
The south face of the whole massif is not usually climbed: There rock-quality is bad which causes a lot of Rockfall. Therefore most climbs on the massif are accessed by the Blüemlisalphütte (see below)

Other peaks in the massif are:

Wyssi Frau 3650m

Morgenhorn 3623m

Oeschinenhorn 3486m

Fründenhorn 3369m

Wildi Frau 3260m

Please note: If you find any errors or outdated info on this page or want to add
more information, please send me an eMail, so I can correct it, or I can give you editing privileges.

Getting There

To get to the area, you will probably come from the north via Bern -> Thun-> Spiez.
From the south it is a good idea to take the Car-transport Railroad to Kandersteg.
There are two starting points for this massiv which two valleys that are almost equal
in distance from the hut:

Kandersteg (1200m), a small town, which is one end-point of the Lötschberg railroad (Bern - Milan)
It is a quiet and reasonable priced holiday resort where you can hire a guide or just take some
easy hikes to several mountain lakes and to half a dozen different huts of the Swiss Alpine Club.
In spring it is the starting point for some steep and exciting ski mountains, all over 3000 m (Morgenhorn,
Rinderhorn, Altels, Balmhorn and the Doldenhorn). Wildstrubel is one of the easier targets.
The trail to the Hut starts from Kandersteg and passes by the beautiful Oeschinensee that you
can reach by foot (on a small road with signs) or by using the cable car. If you know where to look,
you can already see the Hut from here on the shoulder in the distance. Go to the left from the
Restaurant to the north side of the lake (1522 m). Don't miss the signs to the left in the first curve
to the right where the trail leads up. Don't get lured away by the beautiful waterfalls that come later
along the lakeshore. From here you come to the few huts of "Underbaergli", and follow the path
staight on to "Oberbaergli", where you can often start using the skis until May. The rest of the Trail
should be obvious: Follow the valley and then take the left side up to the ridge. Note: If you use
skis, don't follow this ridge all the way because there is a 15m drop when you are within 200m
of the hut.
Griesalp in the Kiental (1400m) which is basically just the end of the road running
up the Kiental valley. This is a pretty good starting point for skiers, because it is higher and
the snow stays much longer on this north side.

Red Tape

There is no permits and no fees in any form to be paid.

When To Climb

Of course any climb can be done under the worst of conditions. The peaks around the Bluemlisalphorn
have the best conditions and most visitors from May until September. For the North-Face Routes it is
favourable to have a neve (packed snow) cover on the hard ice. This is best around May in most years.

Huts & Camping

Huts
There is just one hut that is within convenient reach of all the peaks of the Bluemlisalp Group

Blümlisalphut
Altitude:	2834 m
GPS Location:	625.560 / 151.030 (Swissgrid/CH1903)
Tel. on Hut:	+33-676 14 37
Open:	Attended: End of June until approximately 15. Oktober Winter-room is open in the off-season
Approach:	Approach from the 2 nearby valleys is simple on good trails and you can simply follow the signs: Kiental -> Griesalp -> Hut in 4½ hrs Kandersteg -> Oeschinensee -> Hut in 4½ hrs See also the description in the 'Getting There' section.
WebPages:	Bluemlisalp Hut Kandersteg Tourism

Camping
There is a Campground in one of the starting towns: Camping Rendezvous in Kandersteg.
Although camping is not the typical way to stay overnight on the mountain, you can do it
if you behave nicely. Ideally you pitch the tent at dusk and pack it in at dawn, and call that
a bivouac.

Mountain Conditions

Basislager.ch: Log of previous attempts, including description of ice conditions (German !)

Books & Maps

Books:

SAC-Clubfuehrer Berner Alpen 2

Maps: Swisstopo Swiss Maps :

1:50.000 - #264, Jungfrau

1:25.000 - #1248, Mürren

External Links

Ascent of the North Face of the Bluemlisalphorn Apr.2002 --- Ulrich Prinz

Images



[ View Gallery - 97 More Images ]