Known as DaKobed or "Great Parent" by Native Americans, the stratovolcano Glacier Peak is the patriarch of the north central Cascade mountains, the highpoint of Snohomish county. Though relatively small among sibling volcanoes in the Cascade Range, Glacier Peak stands well above it's neighbors and affords tremendous views from it's relatively compact summit plateau. On clear days, the volcano can be seen on the northeast horizon from most Seattle highpoints.

Glacier Peak began forming as early as 700,000 years ago, with heavy eruptive activity occurring since the retreat of the ice age glaciers about 17000 years ago. The most recent eruptions, gleaned from geologic evidence and native oral history, may have occurred as recently as 300 years ago. Evidence of volcanic activity is clearly visible in the pyroclastic flows, ash deposits, and multiple hot springs.

As Washington State's most remote volcanic peak, Glacier Peak is completely surrounded by wilderness. Access requires at minimum 10 miles of hiking just to reach a "base camp".

Approaches

From the West Side

Many of the West side access points to Glacier Peak have closed recently due to massive flooding that occurred in October 2003. Hardest hit were the White Chuck and Suiattle River trails. See the following sites for more info:
Seattle P-I Report
USFS Report
USFS Repair Status
USFS Photos of road/trail damage

North Fork Sauk River Trail #649
Distance	8.2 miles hike one way to White Pass (~5 miles due south of Glacier Peak Summit)
Current Status	Sloan Creek Road is accessible during normal summer season. Check Road Report for latest conditions. North Fork Sauk Trail is open.Check Trail Report for latest conditions.
Access	Drive the Mountain Loop Highway 16 miles east of Darrington. Turn left on Sloan Creek/North Fork Sauk Road #49. Park at the North Fork Sauk Trailhead at 6.7 miles.
Notes	This is considered to be the best approach currently into the area, though it puts you well south of the objective. This is a good choice for climbers doing the Disappointment Peak/Gerdine Ridge and White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glaciers Routes.

White Chuck River Trail #643
Distance	7 miles hike one way to intersection with Pacific Crest Trail on Glacier Peak's West side.
Current Status	White Chuck Road closed indefinitely at 1.4 miles due to bridge washout. White Chuck Trail has heavy damage and travel is closed officially.
Access	From Mountain Loop Highway 10.5 miles east of Darrington, follow White Chuck River Road 11 miles to road end and trailhead. Before the 10/03 flooding, the White Chuck River Trail was the shortest and most popular route into the area.
Notes	Prior to the 10/03 flooding, this was the approach of choice for most climbs including Sitkum Glacier, and Kennedy Glacier. It is now likely that the trail will need to be completely rerouted.

Suiattle River Trail #784
Distance	14 miles hike one way to Vista Ridge Camp (by way of Milk Creek Trail)
Current Status	Suiattle River Road closed indefinitely due to bridge washout. Suiattle River Trail also closed due to heavy damage.
Access	From Highway 530 north of Darrington, take Suiattle River Road #26 to the road end and the trailhead.

From the East Side

White River Trail
Distance	14 miles hike one way to White Pass (~5 miles due south of Glacier Peak Summit)
Current Status	White River Road is accessible during normal summer season. Contact the Lake Wenatchee Ranger station at (509) 763-3103 for road conditions. White River Trail is open during normal summer season. Contact Ranger Station for more info.
Access	Take the White River Road # 6400 NW from the Lake Wenatchee Area to the road end.
Notes	This is an East-Side alternative to the North Fork Sauk approach.

Routes

Route Name	Duration	Difficulty (alpine grade)	Elevation Gain	Approach
Sitkum Glacier	2-3 days	I	8200	White Chuck*
Scimitar Glacier	2-3 days	II	8200	White Chuck*
Kennedy Glacier	2-3 days		8200	White Chuck*
Frostbite Ridge	2-3 days		8200	White Chuck*
Chocolate Glacier	3+ days		8900	Suiattle*
Cool Glacier	3+ days	I	8900	Suiattle*
Disappointment Peak Cleaver/ Gerdine Ridge	3+ days	I	8200	White Chuck* or N Fork Sauk

* White Chuck and Suiattle approaches are not currently accessible. See Approaches section for details.

Red Tape

A Northwest Forest Pass is required to Park at all trailheads. There are no fees or permits required for climbing. Forest passes are available at local sporting goods stores, as well as the Darrington Ranger Station (360-436-1155)

When To Climb

The "regular" season is May-October, depending on snow and road conditions. Be sure to check the road and trail reports (see "Getting There" section above") before heading out.

Camping

Great camping is available throughout the area.

If attempting the Sitkum Glacier route, several fantastic campsites exist in "Boulder Basin", which is accessed via a steep climbers track off of the Pacific Crest Trail. The sunsets here are unreal.

Use the pit toilet provided. Pack out all garbage.

Mountain Conditions

National Weather Service Report for the West Slopes of the Northern Cascades

In Memoriam: Kennedy Hot Springs

Sadly, with the October 2003 flooding came an end to a favorite resting point for climbers and hikers in the Glacier Peak area: Kennedy Hot Springs. Massive mudslides in the area buried the springs, campground, and ranger cabin.

Ira Spring and Harvey Manning described Kennedy Hot Springs in 100 Hikes in Washington's Glacier Peak Region as "A tublike pool...just big enough for three or four people who don't believe in the germ theory of disease." However I'll always remember the springs as a rare treat on the way to/from a great climb.

Fortunately, there is a second option for the hard-core: Gamma Hot Springs on the mountain's Eastern side. Unfortunately, access to Gamma requires a 30+ mile round-trip hike w/ 3 miles of bushwhacking up Gamma Creek.

External Links

Glacier Peak via Sitkum Glacier

Images



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