The peak has been likened to a "great obelisk of rock", a classic horn created by the merging of several glacial cirques. Three remarkable ridges radiate from the summit (N, W, and E), Alpine Grade II-III and 5.2-5.8 (depending upon route and which guide you survey). The icefield and valley views, the alpine approches, the rock quality, the shear majesty and position of the peak combine to make this a memorable and magnificent ascent by any route. Fred Beckey has a great account of the first ascent in a chapter of his Challenge of the North Cascades... and comments in his guide that the mountain was formerly referred to as both Mt Forgotten and Isosceles Peak (since the summit pyramid looks triangular from almost all vantage points above the tree line except when foreshortened from close beneath Boston Basin or Boston Glacier, etc.) before his first ascent party made the "Forbidden" name stick in the early 1940s.

The West Ridge receives the most attention due to its inclusion in the 50 Classic Climbs in North America. The attention is well-deserved, but don't expect to spend a lonely day on the route. The North Ridge is much more alpine and committing while the East Ridge Routes are much more technical (5.7-5.8 on the Direct Ridge) or loose and unsavory (NE Ledge AKA Northeast Face had a fatal fall on traverse in 1975). The warm south face is gnerally downslabbed and holds a number of serious alpine rock climbs 8-10 pitches Grade III-IV / up to 5.10-A3. Selected Climbs in the Cascades writes "There is no easy way off Forbidden Peak." It's true. Many of us have felt that sense of uneasiness on the summit of Forbidden that goes with having completed only half the climb... Reference material from Beckey Guide Vol 2 and Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Potterfield and Nelson.

Getting There

Access is by Cascade River Road at Marblemount, WA off of Washington Highway 20. Turn south at the strange 90 degree turn of the Highway in downtown Marblemount onto the paved road. The road will turn to dirt and keep going. Recent improvements on bridges in wash and slide areas are nice! You need to go past the large car-park and gate at 19 miles/2000 ft or so (this is one trailhead for Eldorado Peak).

About 3200 ft elevation and 21.7 miles down the road, there's a small turn-off on the left (note small hanging glacier of Johannesburg Mt on right and ice blocks in the valley below it). The trailhead is there - follow old road until it turns into single track. The lower trail section is riddled with small streams and wash-outs so be careful to stay in the trail (AKA alternate streambed) and out of the Devil's Club and copious slide alder thickets!

Red Tape

Wilderness Permits are required. They are also VERY hard to get on a summer weekend - Boston Basin is some kinda officially designated Alpine-meadow sensitive area or something. it is amazingly beautiful. My advice: Get your permit Thursday night or Friday morning at the Ranger Station in Marblemount. Afterhours, you can self-issue and on Thursday nights, the limited sites are never full (so far). Boston Basin is "Crosscountry I Zone" and maximum of 6 parties at any given time. I have met Rangers every time i've been in the area (3 years running) and they are always nice and always ask for your permits!

Lots of hikers drag up there to look around and it's also the starting point for climbing Sahale Peak by Quien Sabe Glacier, Mt Buckner's North Face, etc.. Wilderness permits are free and the trailheads are (barely) in the N Cascade National Park so you DO REQUIRE a Northwest Forest Pass permit ($5/day or $30 annual).

Despite what it says on the NPS website (below) do not be confused: you do need to go to Marblemount Ranger Station for permits into Boston Basin, they cannot be issued from Methow or anywhere else.

North Cascades NPS Fees and Permits

After you become confused you can call the WIlderness Information Center at (360) 873-4500 x39 (May - October).

There are no seasonal closures, just a severely limited user number. Brown bears have been seen at both the low and high basin camps so stow your food appropriately. There's a nice 3 meter boulder problem just "east" of the porta-pot at the main upper camp 6050ft - make it interesting by taking your food bags up there clenched between your teeth with your headlamp in the dark...

Ther are lots or marmots and some pikas around as well and a tremendous amount of huckleberries in the Fall. There's lots of granite, running water, and flora so stay on trails!

When To Climb

Hmmm.... when to climb. Well, I've tried June (too much snow on the rock), I've tried late September (big blizzard the night we camped out put too much new snow on the rock), so I must agree with the guides and go for 2 thumbs up on mid-JULY to late AUGUST!

Warmer years subtract a few weeks off the front, etc. etc. etc.

ONE big note: access to the West and North Ridges can change significantly when out of season. Lately, with the global weather patterns like El Nino etc. the West Ridge couloir has been melting out completely by August. This means that 700ft of generally decent 45 degree snow becomes 700ft of nasty-loose-falling-ever-so-lightly-on-your-partner's-head ROCK. This makes for an extra Alpine Grade on that route. If heading over to the North Ridge by Sharkfin col, which i have yet to do, i have talked with some guys who like to minimize the length of rotten gully leading up to the col (which is 5.5+) by taking it pretty early. Note that the West Ridge was first climbed in APRIL 1940 (unsuccessfully) and then JUNE by L. Anderson with some punk kids named Fred and Helmy Beckey. So if snow en route on rock doesn't bother you, the West Ridge (straight-forward ridge climb with one crux 5.4-5.6) early is good. The East Ridge Direct early may be a LOT more difficult (ridge with multiple gendarmes/by-passes 5.4-5.6 and vertical 5.8 crux well into the climb) when there's snow on it compared to the West so maybe that should be done "later".

Camping

Camping is in "designated Wilderness sites". There's a map of them available at the Wilderness Center in Marblemount. High camps are at 6350-6600 ft around an old moraine while the Lower Camps are at 5600-5800 or so. The high camps are best for the Forbidden Peak climbs and bivy sites up on the lower spur to the East Ridge adjacent to the glacier are also possible. There's no camping on exposed, fresh earth or flora / tundra... camp on bare rock/snow or in the designated spots!

No fees to camp. No fees to climb. Only a fee to park at the trailhead.

Mountain Conditions

You can go to North Cascades NP General Info for some basic info on roads and main trails, but you're not gonna find anything good about this climb or it's approach.

THE OFFICIAL NPSNCNP CLIMBERS SITE IS! :-o
Pseudo-Lame Official Climbing Info

or (again) call (360) 873-4500 ext. 39 The Wildnerness Information Center.

The website (and sometimes the phone call) is entertaining i guess but not always TIMELY. No web-cams that i know of... I've only caught a "Climbing Ranger" in the office once... They must all be out climbing. :-) The guys and girls from Alpine Ascents International seem to climb the basin area a lot (Sahale, Forbidden, Buckner) and might be willing to clue you in on some route and condition Beta if you ask nicely. They also might drag you up if you pay 'em. AAI - phone (206) 378-1927. Alpine Ascents International

External Links

Bighurtbob and Mvs on the north ridge

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