Pik Korzhenevskoy is the third highest peak in the Pamir after Pik Kommunizma and Pik Lenin and forth highest in the former Soviet Union. It is located just south of the Tajik-Kyrgyz border in the north-south trending Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) sub-range, which forms the core of the Pamir. It rises on the south bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the peak is the Fortambek Glacier. Pik Korzhenevskoj is just 13km north of Pik Kommunizma, the highest peak in the former Soviet Union.

It was first discovered in 1910 by Russian Middle Asia explorer by the name of Nikolai L. Korzhenevski and named by him after his wife, Evgenia Korzhenevskaya. The mountain is ofen spelt a number of ways to create confusion: Korzhenevskaya, Korzhenevski and Korzenievsky! Prior to this the mountain was known by the local name of Kul-Santalak.

The mountain is considered to be the second easiest 7000er in the former Soviet Union after Pik Lenin. It is not a "trekking peak" like Lenin however which is among the easiest peaks in the world for its height. Korzhenevskoy needs good acclimatization and previous mountaineering background. The first ascent was in 1953 by a group of Leningrad mountaineers lead by A. Ugarov. They approached the peak from the north-west via the Muksu valley, ascended the lower Fortambek glacier and climbed the peak from the western side.

The classic routes up Pik Korzhenevskaya and Pik Kommunizma start from the same base camp. Consequently many climbers attempt both mountains using Korzhenevskaya to prepare for higher and slighty harder Kommunizma. Several Russian and Pamir-based companies offer expedition services for both peaks (see External Links section).

Pik Korzhenevskoj

Routes Overview

6700m and counting...

Korzhenevskaya has been climbed from almost every direction, including a first winter ascent in 1986; most of these ascents were by Russians. An excellent overview of routes on the mountain are illustrated here

The Southern Crest

This is the most common and easiest route (Russian Grade 5A) that was first completed in 1953 by V. Tsetkin. It normally takes acclimatised climbers around four days to go from the Moskvina base camp to summit and back to base camp. A good photo showing the route and camps is available here. The route ascends from the south and attains the summit ridge from the west side forming a gian "Z" shape. Climbers ascending southern crest route typically set up 3 camps at 5100m, 5800m and 6400m.

The west and south face have challenging routes such as the Romanov Pillar, a Russian 5B rated mixed route on the south face.
A conversion chart for Russian to Alpine grades can be found here

A Snow Leopard Mountain

Kommunizma, 7495m

Pobeda

Pik Korjenevskoy is one of the five 7000 m peaks of the former USSR (assuming Khan Tengri to be 7010m and not 6995m) and generally considered to be the easiest after Pik Lenin. Climbers who manage to scale those five peaks are awarded the "Snow Leopard" Trophy. This is a sought-after trophy by many Russian climbers however a select group of people from outside the former Soviet countries have also managed to scale all five Snow Leopard peaks. These include the Spanish female climber María Jesús “Chus” Lago and the Turkish alpinist Nasuh Mahruki. Check out the SP Snow Leopard page for more information.

Getting There

Internation Flights

Flights to Dushanbe are expensive and limited so our best bet is to fly to either Tashkent, Bishkek or Almaty. Take into concideration visa and transport when deciding on your destination. Once in Central Asia it's relitively cheap to fly between republics if need be. Pulkovo Airlines is the cheap way to fly.
You can also get to Dushanbe by bus, but there is no border-crossing services, so you will need to take a combination of mini buses and shared taxis to work your way to Dushanbe from Kazakhstan, Kyrgzstan or Uzbekistan.

Helicopter to Base Camp

Helecopter arriving at base camp

Most people fly by helicopter to the Moskvina Base Camp from Dushambe which takes about 2 hours. Flights can be postponed in bad weather.
Alternatively you can travel to Jirgital and fly from there in only 45 minutes. The man advantage of doing this is that it's marginally cheaper. The road in between Dushanbe and Dzirgatal is one of the most unsafe in all Tajikistan, so it's hardly worth the risk. The conditions along the road have improved a lot lately, but ask locally for advice.
Flights no longer operate from Kyryzstan.

Hiking in

The approach for the first ascent 1953 was done hiking in. The expedition went from Muk village up the Muksu river and crossed multiple passes, hiked up the lower stretches to get to the west side of the peak.
This very long and strenous approach has not been done in decades. In 1988 an expedition from GDR tried it but went to another peak (Pik Radianow, 6330 m) because of the rough nature of this approach - and who knows which state this approach is in today!
This is an option for explorer only who are willing to risk their chance to summit due to failing on the approach.

The other possibilty is via Altyn Mazar to the east (border crossing with Kyrgyzstan, west of Pik Lenin) - this unoffical border crossing is hard to pass due to increased drug trafficing and controls there; most people who tried to enter the Tajik mountains there in the past were turned back by the military.
Also the river Muksu is hard to cross even with horses, but only in late summer after a winter and spring with little snow, and horses are available nowhere near as far as I know.

Red Tape

Visas

Slmost all nationalaties require a visa which must be obtained prior to arrival. Some embassies require a letter of introduction/recommendation for a via to be issued.

Tajik Embassy Locator

Permits

A peak permit is required which can be obtained through a travel agent or expedition company in Dushanbe or Bishkek. The fee is $100 which entitles you to climb both Peak Korjenevskoy and Pik Kommunizma. If someone asks for further charges ask the written documentation on what you are supposed to pay!! The permit must be issued only by responsible authority and not by the person who asks you your money! A lot of people have paid but nobody knows for what they paid for. (Info from alexclimb)

A border permit is required which costs $20.

You also need a permit for the Gorno-Badakhshan Permit is also required. You'll pick it up in the ministry of interior and it's free, or $20 depending on whom you talk to. Be sure it's written Gorno Badakhshan A. O. on it.

When To Climb

July and August are climbing months with the best weather and climbing conditions, but also because the helicopters fly only mid/end of July to end of August.

Ascents outside the season in the Pamirs make you face extreme temperatures, avalanche danger and in the particular case of Pik Korjenevskoy climbs outside the season are almost impossible, since the hike-ins from earlier decades are non-existent anymore or impossible outside late summer (high rivers).

Maps

A good online map of the Korzhenevskoj-Communism area in found here

Scanned 1:100 000 Soviet maps of Tajikistan can be found at the University of Berkeley Library website ; they are huge - about 7505 x 6800 px.

Smaller Soviet maps with less solution (about 3500 x 3000 px) can be found at Map Server
Maps of Tajikistan
Maps of Tajikistan

Camping

Base camp is normally deployed on Moskvina glacier at 4200m. Climbers ascending southern crest route typically set up 3 camps at 5100m, 5800m and 6400m. Camps can also be made at 5300m and 6100m (info from alexclimb). The unique feature of this route is that the 1st high-altitude camp (camp-1 at 5100 m) stays at absolutely dry place (on rock), so it it relatively warm there and no need to melt snow

Besides Pik Korzhenevskoj and Kommunisma there are a number of other peaks above 6,000 m (Peak Moskva among them) in the area which could be interesting for mountaineers.

ABC at 4300m

Camp at 5800m

Camp at 6100m

Camp at 6400m

Organisers

It is possible to either book a helicopter return flight o base camp (around $800-900) or have one of the agencies below organise a complete package (around $1800-1900). Packages include:

Base Camp faciliies

Climbers must be self reliant above base camp.

External Links

Top Sport Travel (TST) Expedition Services for Peak Communisma and Peak Korjenevskoy
Company is based in St. Petersburg, Russia
Tour International expedition services to two 7000m Pamir summits
Company is based in Seattle and Moscow
Expert information about mountains of the former soviet union
Vladimir Kopylov's company now concentrates fully on a varied program of expeditions in the caucasus, but he remains a great specialist on all the mountains of the former Soviet Union.
ITC Asia Mountains
Offers trips to Pik Korjenevskoy and Kommunizma, but also Pik Lenin, Pik Pobeda and Khan Tengri, as well as Heli-Skiing, Trekking and cultural tours.
Asia Travel
Offers trips to Pik Korjenevskoy and Kommunizma, but also Pik Lenin, Pik Pobeda and Khan Tengri, as well as Heli-Skiing, Trekking and cultural tours. Frequently recommended
Abenteuer Pamir - von der DDR in die Bergwelt Tadschikistans
Attempt of GDR expedition to climb Pik Korjenevskoy from Muksu in 1988, ascent of Pik Radianow (6330 m) - in German only

Images



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