Sentinel Peak Sport Route

This fully bolted sport route follows the NW arête of Sentinel Peak, finishing directly below the top scramble of the Sentinel Standard Route. Permission was granted by the land owner and the KZN Wildlife mangers to establish this sport route. 

Getting There

Approach as for the Angus Leppan Route along the path towards the chain ladders. Turn left off the upper path towards the Angus Leppan route and about a third of the way up the gully, look for a short pillar on the true left wall. 

Route Description

Start: Up a shallow groove just left of the short pillar. 1. 36m (19):Climb the initial groove, then make a thin move left, then back right onto a ramp. Follow the ramp over an overhang near the top to the chains on the left. 2. 33m (17): Continue up the ramp with an awkward move onto a ledge near the beginning, then traverse a fair way to the right to a small stance with some grass. 3. 20m (21 or 19, A0): Climb up over a bulge into a shallow recess. Exit right and traverse 4 m right and do a thin move to ascend up right into a scoop (crux). This can be climbed free at 21, or at 19 if the convenient bolts are pulled on. Continue up and exit left onto the stance. 4. 30m (17):Traverse up left under an overhang, then continue straight up the corner above, which has a strenuous last move. Continue over ledges to a stance. 5. 20m (17):Climb up leftwards over ledges and blocks to a grass ledge. 6. 25m (17):Climb the layback crack, then exit right and climb rightwards to a slanted ledge below a ramp leading up to an overhang. 7. 15m 17):Climb up the ramp, avoiding some loose blocks, then do a reachy move using an undercling into another undercling under the final roof. Do an exposed traverse rightwards on underclings and side pulls to exit. Descent (1 hr or 2hrs). Either abseil straight down the route or descend via the Standard Route (quicker). 

Essential Gear

1 x 50m single rope (if descending down the Standard Route). 1 x 70m single rope or 2 x 50m half ropes (if abseiling back down the route). 14 x quickdraws. Some long slings for anchors. 

External Links