"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe
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cp0915 - Oct 9, 2009 1:25 pm - Voted 10/10
Dirty SanchezGreat name!
rpc - Oct 9, 2009 1:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Dirty SanchezI know, I loved it too :)
5 of 4 stars for the name, 0 stars for climbing quality...still worth tho :)
darinchadwick - Apr 27, 2010 1:42 pm - Voted 10/10
Proud first ascent of BIAR.Hey, Ryan and I did the first ascent of Birds in a Rut back in the day. We figured the name would scare off the sport climbers and it described the condition of the route as we found it. Actually it came from some guy who misunderstood Ryan describing the Virgin Arete and thought he said BIAR. What did you rate it at? Ryan bolted some really nice sport routes off to the right of Birds that were really nice in the .10-.11 range.
rpc - Apr 27, 2010 5:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Proud first ascent of BIAR.Hi Darin,
I did not realize you and Ryan L. climbed together. "Birds In a Rut" vs. "Virgin Arete" confusion is funny...I guess they could sorta sounds similar :) I guess the route is in the 5.7 to .8 range. We rapped after that chimney/dihedral pitch though. If we go back for Santiam Hw. L., we'll try and check out other routes up there by Ryan. Thanks for visiting Darin. Cheers.
darinchadwick - Apr 29, 2010 8:47 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Proud first ascent of BIAR.We climbed together a few times in the late 90's. He was pretty motivated back then, lot's of good ideas and a backpack full of batteries for the HILTI. I was mostly his belay slave, but got to drill a few, climb a few, and name a few. We thought birds was 5.7. You know if you've climbed that route you've been climbing at Smith too long.
rpc - Apr 29, 2010 3:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Proud first ascent of BIAR.Interesting Darin - had no idea. Actually, the new Watts book is loaded with many new great looking lines, some of which I have not heard about prior to the book. Some are probably Ryan's.