Located to the left of the well travelled Right Couloir on North Peak, this seldom visited route will give one a quiet adventure with an incredible sense of an alpine environment. When the couloir conditions are fully IN, you can expect 50-65 deg blue Sierra bullet ice conditions that require your picks to definitely be sharpened in the Positive Curved Angle (see below in the Essential Gear Section for photo) so as not to have them bouncing off the ice, insuring good adherance and resulting in less dinner plating. This route also avails the oppurtunity to ascend the three pitches of 55m's, each culminating in a solid established fixed belay anchor which I established in July of '04 and have maintained annually since. The anchors are staggarded on the entire route, affording safety and protection from any falling debris and also gives the team a speedy and safe fixed rappel anchors from which to descend from. Each one being no more than 55m's in length. This rap route also allows the team to leave their packs at the base and afford them a more pleasant climb and availing the team the oppurtunity to then move over to either the Center (#2 AI3/M3)) Couloir or onto the well establsihed and much more popular Right (#3 AI3) Couloir, thus doing two routes, all in one days time. All making this a very accessible, safe and enjoyble Sierra Alpine Couloir climbing adventurous day. May I also add that this route is an excellent first time lead oppurtunity for any aspiring ice climber, it is low keyed, unpopular and protects very well. Ask Deb Castro. Oh, you won't find this specific route in any Guide Books thank God! SP Parker's Eastern Sierra Ice contains beta on the Right Couloir though. Something to consider as well, previous heavy snow winter's accumulation can lessen the steepness of all three of these couloir's drastically, up to 20 degs and blanket the actual blue Sierra bullet ice. Each season is different and one can find different and varying conditions from one season to the next. Enjoy!

P1**

Getting There

A 2-3 hour hike from the Saddlebag Lake T/H as mentioned in the master North Peak SP page.

Route Description

Approaching the start can be tedious and slightly nerve racking due to the loose scree and boulders located just below the main snow field leading to the Center and Right Couloir's. Be careful on the approach as losing your footing could in fact end up sending you on a death slide to the lakes basin 400' feet below. BE CAREFUL and STAY FOCUSED!

P1-Start the route at the obvious right outcropping(as shown in the picture to the right) where you will find two fixed pins and ample locations for some med-large nut placements for backup anchor pro. It also affords the belayer protection from any falling debris or dinner plating ice from the leaders advancement. Climb directly up for about 50m's then look left and you will find the first of three established fixed belay/rap anchors, 5m's up in a solid outcropping of granite with vertical finger size crack systems. Establish the belay and bring up your partner. AI2+ish w/55-60deg blue hard ice.

Top of P1 (Fixed Belay Anchor)**

P2-Continue up from the first stance on solid bullet ice. Here is where it can get steeper of course depending on the accumulation of ice through the summer's thaws and freezes. On a good year, sections can acquire 70deg bulges and afford some interesting consistent 65-70deg climbing. At about 50m's from the belay, the leader should begin to see the fixed anchor's of the top of P2 on the right side of the third vertical set of rocks, protruding from the ice and 3' or so from the main right wall. Finish up at the anchors and enjoy the view behind ya into Lundy Canyon and the southern section of the Sweetwater Range on the far north distant skyline as seen in the picture below. AI3ish w/55-70deg blue hard ice.

Looking down on P2 and across at the wonderful view*

P3##

P3-The third and final pitch continues straight up to the ominous huge boulder that is located 6/7ths up the couloir. In shallow ice seasons, achieving the last anchor, which is located directly below the massive boulder, can encompass some mixed, M3 at the severist, climbing. In good ice seasons, it is enjoyable solid bullet ice all the way to the boulder and the final anchor. This last pitch can get steep and achieve a slope angle of up to 65degs potential. AI2+ w/55-65deg blue hard ice.

P2#

Picture Topo##

Descent & Essential Gear

Descent: Rappel the route via fixed anchors utilizing two 60m ropes. Three rappels total back to the base.

Essential Gear:
- 1 Pair of Ice Tools w/filed picks in a Positive Curved angle
- 1 Pair of sharp Crampons w/Front Points
- 2 60m "Dry" Ropes (Thin Doubles or Twins rec)
- 5-7 (12/16cm) Sharp Screws
- 1 Set of #6-13 Stopper's
- 10 Alpine Slings/Draws
- 8 Spare Alpine Biner's
- 4 Spare 24" Slings
- Helmet

Note: I have found that a curved upper taper on the Positive angle seems to pierce the bullet ice far smoother than just the standard Positive angle.

Curved "Positive" Angle##

Instead of...

Standard "Positive" Angle##

MotivationalLinks

Oh Yeah Baby!
Local Ice/Couloir Conditions
Local Weather
Eastern Sierra Ice(Robert"SP"Parker)

Photo Credits

* - Deb Castro
**- My Wife
# - Unknown
##- The Chief

Images