The most convenient start is from Stockhorn-Biwak. From there follow marked climbers trail uphill and to the west for about 20 min (cairns). Climb rock sections to gain access to the South ridge. Approximately 30 - 40 min from bivouac to rope-up point, depending how well you find your way...

Route Description

1st Tower: 4 pitches (4, 4+, 2, 5)
Rap down 20m to notch

2nd Tower: 4 pitches (5-, 5-, 3, 3)
Rap down 10m to notch

3rd Tower: 1 pitch (4)
Downclimb to base of 4th tower (3+)

4th Tower: 1 pitch (4)
Bypass 8m below tower summit on left (western) side to abseil station (equipped). Rap down 30m to notch (caution about your rope here).

5th Tower: 5 pitches (6-, 3, 6-, 5+, 3+)

You then follow the almost horizontal ridgeline for 60m (one step UIAA 3).
Further along the ridge for 3 easiy pitches (4-, 3, 3+) to the summit.

Essential Gear

Route is well equipped, bolts and old pitons in difficult sections. Take slings, a good selection of cams to protect in other sections of the climb.

Boots necessary for descent via east ridge.

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