The North Ridge is the most common and practical line up Brooks. It was the original line established by the Harvard Mountaineering Club in 1952. The route offers some very enjoyable climbing on moderate slopes and a couple of steep sections to add some variety.

Getting There

The approach from Wonder Lake is described on the main page. Note: the route takes 1-2+ days, but the approach takes 2-6 days. Plan accordingly.

Route Description

Route

The route begins on the moraine at the base of the ridge (approximately 5,500’). Ascend the undefined ridge on talus or snow slopes for approximately 1,000’. Be wary of rock fall and avalanche potential. Obtain the Northeast Ridge proper around 6,700’. Follow the ridge proper to a shoulder around 7,520’. This shoulder provides a good camp location. Continue along the ridge to approximately 8,900’ where the Northeast Ridge intersects the North Ridge. Climb the steep (65 degrees), but short (80-100’) slope and then continue up the ridge. Be alert for crevasses crossing and running parallel to the ridge crest. There is a final steep section around 11,000’ then a brief traverse to gain the summit.

Descent: Retrace the ascent route.

Essential Gear

Standard glacier and crevasse rescue gear (including pickets and ice screws for rescue) is required. Avalanche beacons and wands should be considered. Bring a shovel and camping equipment if planning on establishing a shoulder camp.