The North Ridge is a fairly popular route up to the summit of the Middle Teton. It offers a fairly easy route to the summit from the lower saddle, thereby lending itself to climbers as the route of choice While traversing from the Grand to the Middle.

Getting There

Start off From Lupine Meadows trailhead and follow the standard route to the lower saddle (climbers' trail from the lupine meadows camping area). Once at the lower saddle, climb south (left) toward the base of the north ridge. The first real features you will come to are two small pinnacles, Pinnocchio Pinnacle is the first one, and Bonney's is the second. Go right of The first and left of the second to negotiate this area. Once past the second pinnacle, there is a small notch that you must climb out of. Beyond this there's an obvious ledge that must be traversed for 40-50 feet. Turn right at this point, and you will find a large indentation in the ridge. Climb up and out of this by using an angled shelf leading out to the right. Having passed this section, look for the black dike, and the notch that it forms, when you are there, walk to the east until you are at the north ridge. Climb out of this notch by the easiest means (crux). Easy ledges lead up to the summit from this point.

Essential Gear

Reuired equpment depends heavily upon the experience of the climber using it. For one who is very experienced, this route could be (and has been) soloed. If they wanted to use pro, only three to five pieces of protection should be required (nuts or small-medium sized cams). However, it's always better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. For a team with less experience, a full set of nuts and a few cams would be a good idea. There are a couple places where rock shoes would be helpful, but certainly not mandatory. Have Fun! Be Safe!