Overview PHOTO SHOP is located on the right area of the BARD/HARRINGTON Wall Section of LEE VINING CANYON below Ellery Lake and MT.DANA. It is rated at a solid WI4 but when FAT, can be considered a WI3+ as the Funnel section of P-2 is filled in and is straight forward 80-90deg solid ice that can be well protected. When not Fat, this Crux section can be dicey and an M4 rating can be added as the ice is very thin and rock pro can be used to supplement the thin ice. At times, Fixed Pro can be found on the left section of the vertical cracks which are found on P-2. Also, P-1 Belay(two fixed pins w/slings)when there is thin ice, can be found under the obvious roof to the lower left of the start of P-2. Be careful as you climb up past the crux section as this section tappers off and gets exposed to melt surface water ice which can "Dinner Plate" in large sections and impact your belayer at the lower section of the pitch. Belay at the top of the pitch and continue to the upper walk off.
Variations can be done when "EPIC" conditions exist, such as those of last season! Veering right and over to the face at the 2nd anchor, will give a party variables of WI5 to M4/5 potentials of incredible challenges and fun, as witnessed below,the LV "Master", Doug Nidiver!
Doug Niver(From his site w/permission) |
Getting ThereTake 395 to 120, Tioga Pass Road, 1/2 mile south of LEE VINING and turn left. Head up the road to the closed gate and hang a left on the paved road. Continue up, 1.5 miles to the unpaved section(4WD required/very handy)and continue to the end. Park at the obvious section before the Edison Power Plant. DO NOT PARK on the Edison obvious property line. Walk through the Edison paved section, past the garages then left to find the trail which heads up the canyon, approx 1.2 miles. After a significant snowfall, snowshoes may be required and don't count on finding any evidence of any trail from the previous day as the wind can rifle down the canyon at 50-70mph's, the night before, covering any trail that existed. This is on EDISON PROPERTY!!! Utilization and Access is based on our actions and the on-going efforts and great rapport with Edison that Doug Nidever has built up. Please ensure that you PACK OUT ALL TRASH AND FECAL MATTER!!!!
 PS is to the right of the B/H.
Route DescriptionSee OVERVIEW.
Essential Gear2ea Modern ICE TOOLS preferred. Double 8.1mm 60or70m DRYS work great as they can be used in a retreat and get you off the wall quickly. 8-12 Medium (16-17cm) screws, 10 Draws & 10 loose biners. If the ice is thin, 2-3 short/thin-thick LA's, 1ea #4-8 Stoppers and 1ea #1-3 TCU's. A 21cm screw and 2ea 3' sections of 7mm cord and leaver Biner's should be carried to facilitate a V-Thread for emergency retreat.External LinksCURRENT LVC ICE CONDITIONS
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Mount Dana
