Northern Couloir

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Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.58380°N / 105.4443°W

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Class 3

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Page By: Mike Mc

Created/Edited: Sep 25, 2005 / Sep 25, 2005

Object ID: 166904

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Page Score: 79.9% - 1 Votes

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Table of Contents

Approach

Beginning at the Huerfano River Trailhead, hike toward Lindsey as described in the "North Face" route. Once at the top of the Iron Nipple / Lindsey Saddle (13,160), descend east for several hundred feet through a boulder field. You can descend completely into the valley below, or traverse across the boulder field, saving elevation. (When I did this climb, I traversed, and my dad descended completely, and I beat him by several minutes). Hike far enough east to bypass a large rock. This massive chunk of mountain and the "NW Ridge" bracket the "North Face" route. Once clearly around, hike south (up) toward the entrance to the couloir.

Route Description

Note: Do not mistake this route for Roach's "North Couloir." Roach's couloir terminates at Lindsey's true summit. This route ends at the false summit.

There is no definitive way up this gully. The rock may be slightly loose in sections of the direct center of the couloir; however, the edges and ribs are very solid and provide a variety of challenges. With a little route finding, the terrain never becomes more difficult than class 3. Steeper sections lurk throughout the cliffs. Continue climbing until you reach Lindsey's false summit. Follow the ridge to the true summit.

Essential Gear

This route provides an alternative to the "North Face" bowling alley; however, I still wore a helmet. Other than that, good hiking boots and a typical daypack should be plenty. I climbed this route in July, and almost all of the snow was gone. If climbed earlier, snow-climbing gear would be necessary.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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