ApproachThe starting point of the ascent is the Cabane de Valsorey(3030 m).
Situated at the foot of south-west flank of Grand Combin.
It is reachable from Bourg St.Pierre(CH) on an easy path in 3.30/4.00 hours.
Musso Bivouac(3664m) could be also usefull especially in case of bad weather.It's composed by 6 place.It,s placed on a rocky spur between glacier du Meitin and glacier du Sonadon.
Reachable from Cabane the Valsorey across the glacier(PD 1.30/2.00 hours) or from Valpelline(IT) trough Col dell'Amiante and Col de Sonadon(PD 3hours).
Route DescriptionRoute from Cabane the Valsorey:
Usually wake up 3 o'clock AM.Walking up on a gravelled path first and than on a glacier, taking the direction north-east(from your left to right),towards the evident lower point of the spur that descents from the wester part of the mountain.
The Musso bivouac is placed at the and of this spur(your right).
From there,probably time around sunrise,the south wall will be visible on your left(north),and the slant increase immediately.
Climb all the 500 meters of rock-ice mix, pointing to the top of Combin the Valsorey,keeping the left side of the wall(40°/45° max).
The entire slope is on the south side of the mountain, and it begins to take the sunshine from very early time.
This problem plus the wet air coming up from the Italian meadows, doesn't permit a good solidity of the ice.
Furthermore the quality of the rocks is quite bad, and that represent the negative part of the route.
The route is never difficult, but it's dangerous.
It is very advisable to check the conditions before the attempt.
At the end of the icey slope, catch up the rocky part of it, untill the cross on the top of Gran Combin de Valsorey.
From the summit, the difficulties are over, and take the direction to the bigger summit of Gran Combin de Grafeneire.
First loosing meters on the glacier and than going up on the snow dome, where an antenna indicates the highest point.(5/7 hours)
Essential GearHigh mountain gear.Helmet,rope,crampons,best two axes,icescrews.
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Pennine Alps
