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| Colchuck Glacier   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 47.47850°N / 120.8452°W Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling Time Required: A long day Difficulty: Easy Snow / Scramble Grade: I
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| Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni Created/Edited: Sep 18, 2004 / Feb 20, 2006 Object ID: 162204 Hits: 2976 Loading... Page Score: 86.96% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
This route is easiest, most popular and most often climbed on the peak as witnessed by the number of summit log entries here.
Beckey for calls this route as the "East Route" in his climbing guide but the most common name and what is immediately recognized by nearly all northwest climbers is the Colchuck Glacier Route.
Both this route and an approach from Ingalls Creek to the south reach the col between Colchuck and Dragontail and from there follow the easy slopes above to the summit.
It is an easy 3 to 4 hour undertaking from a camp at Colchuck Lake, or can be done in a day from the trailhead.
This was the route used on the first ascent of the peak August 11, 1948 by Elvin R. and Norma Johnson, along with William A., and Kathy Long.
 Colchuck Glacier from the lake in late season - note the bare ice ApproachReach Colchuck Lake as per the main page. (About 4 miles of trail).
Colchuck Glacier is visible from the lake and easily reached over talus or snow depending on the season.
(less than a quarter mile)
Route Description
The route is very straight forward.
Ascend the glacier to the col between Dragontail and Colchuck.. There are few if any crevasses especially early in the season.
From the col it is an easy scramble or snow climb to the summit depending on the season. There are several high points with the western most being the true summit.
Essential GearIce ax and crampons. Crampons may or may not be needed depending on conditions.
See images below for many more climbing photos.
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