Hike over the Stillwater plateau from the "golfcourse" trailhead. Descend to the saddle (~11,100')at the bottom of the Northwest ridge of Mt. Wood. Descend steep and crumbly rock ledges(class 3, some people might prefer a repel in a couple of places because the rock is so awful) down to the head of the West Fishtail Lakes basin (10,400'). And do bring your axe and crampons with you if you choose descend from the Stillwater plateau into this basin expecially in the early season. It is steep and icy.

You may also approach from the Chrome lake area up the West Fishtail Creek - this might be easier and safer than crossing the Stillwater Plateau which is 4 very exposed miles long at above 10,000 feet with nothing but your ice axe to attract electricity.

All told, the easier and better route is from Mystic lake. My Knees were extremely swollen and painful after this day and my pride was battered in by how long the day was.

Route Description

From the head of the basin there are three obvious permanent snowfields with the one to the East being the largest and the one to the West being the smallest. Ascend any way you choose to the base (11,300') of the East snowfield over snow and rock. Here you will find a large bench and from here find your way to the Northwest ridge over lose rock and scree. Once you achieve the Northwest ridge it is a scramble to the East summit which is higher than the West summit.

I used this route to descend in July 03

On that day I found myself in an "exposed traversing" frame of mind so instead of crossing under and to the south of two pinnacles between the east and west summits, I choose to follow the ridge which was just the excitement I needed having sadly left my Skiis at home.

Essential Gear

Ice Axe & crampons are advised

Miscellaneous Info

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