Southeast Ridge

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Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.00080°N / 107.7617°W

Route Type: short Technical Rock Climb, long talus approach

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.3

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Page By: Ryan Kowalski

Created/Edited: Mar 29, 2004 / May 17, 2006

Object ID: 160590

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Table of Contents

Approach

Start out at the Yankee Boy Basin Trailhead at about 10,700 feet, or drive in your 4WD up to a good parking spot on the left side of the road at about 11,300. At this point, Teakettle lies almost exactly to your north.

Route Description

After strapping on your helmet, leave the road at 11,300 and immediately begin a steep ascent of grassy ledges towards the northeast. A cliff band needs to be negotiated at about 11,800 and above this the grassy ledges slowly give way to steep, loose talus. BEWARE: THE ROCK IS VERY LOOSE and this can not be understated. Unfortunately there is no "easy" way up this grungy slope, it just has to be done. Two steps forward, slide one back. Woohoo!

As you ascend the talus head towards the SW ridge coming off the small outcrop known locally as the "Coffepot". You do not need to go all the way to the base of this formation. Instead head to a small bench on the SW ridge where there is a medium sized-cairn. There is a climber's trail that departs from this bench and it is very important to find it. Scope out your route from this vantage (see picture below). The large Black Gully is the first step to your ascent and is easily seen.

Descend loose scree, following the climbers trail as best as possible. The trail should take you under the southern end of a large cliff band that looks to block your descent. Contour around the basin while trending towards the Black Gully. This section is also very loose, and every caution should be taken.

The Black Gully is not as steep as it looks from farther away, but it is just as loose as one would expect. I recommend going up this gully one at a time or stop at places where your partner can be protected. At the top of the gully you can choose to go left or right. GO LEFT . Left is a Class 3 exit where right is essentially climbing Class 4 dirt, not fun.

From here, the going gets a bit easier. The trail from here is more straightforward and easier to follow. Traverse and then climb NW to the summit block. The trail traverses under cliff bands and ascends a pair of sandy gullies. None of this is extremely difficult. The trail eventually leads to the base of the summit block.

After taking your obligatory "Me in Teakettle's handle" picutre, scramble up a short gully to a notch in the NE ridge of the summit block. The jagged and steep north face is eerily close right here, so be careful where you place your gear. From here climb up a couple of blocks and get into a chimney system on the east of the summit block. The rock is not great quality and has a veneer of loose rind, so be careful with your footing. The short bit into the chimney is low Class 5. Choose the left side of the chimney for your ascent and good pro can be found in nearby cracks.

WOW! Enjoy the position and the remarkable drop-offs on every side. Not much room up here though so keep your party to two or less for the top! When you're done a 40 foot rappel tothe east gets you off the summit. This route has been done without ropes up and down so this is an option, however with the questionable rock a rope and gear is suggested for most parties.

Descend your ascent route as far as the bottom of the Black Gully. From here you have two options, both horrible. One: reascend to the SW ridge off of Coffepot and descend how you came up. Two: descend straight down from the bottom of the Black Gully and eventually trend over to the grassy ledges of your ascent. Either way expect loose rock, bad footing, and numerous cuts, scrapes, slips and near-death experiences. Come on this is the San Juans after all! Back at the car, take a sigh of relief and look straight up to where you were.

Essential Gear

BRING A HELMET, NO EXCEPTIONS, NO EXSCUSES

If you choose to do a roped climb, a very small rack , and a few quickdraws are needed. A set of nuts will probably cover you fine. I placed one small cam at the bottom and one mid-sized nut near the top in the chimney. A long sling to back up the rappel is highly recommended. In early season, an ice axe might be a good idea for snow in the coulouirs.

Miscellaneous Info

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