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North to South Traverse
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North to South Traverse 

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 39.07080°N / 106.9886°W

Route Type: Exposed Scramble

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: class 4 with short class 5 pitch

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Larry V

Created/Edited: Feb 19, 2004 / Jul 8, 2007

Object ID: 160108

Hits: 2525 

Page Score: 86.18% - 1 Votes 

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Approach

Start at the Maroon Lake Trailhead and climb North Maroon Peak by the northeast ridge route.

Route Description

 
Ridge from North Maroon

This traverse is worthy of two of the most beautiful peaks in the world. The route is hard to miss, in one sense, because you just follow the ridge until you reach the ledges on Maroon's north side. On the other hand, you will need to choose carefully the path of least resistance, especially on the descent from North Maroon. About 300 yards south from North Maroon, there is an unavoidable, 30-foot drop-off. The best solution my party could find was a near-vertical downclimb on the east side. Do not attempt in wet weather! The use of a rope here is recommended. It is the crux of the route, although there is more excitement to follow. From the 13,780 notch at the top of the Maroon Peak's northeast couloir, climb a short, exposed face to regain the ridge. Continue up a series of often loose ledges to the summit.

Avoid the route in wet weather, and live to climb it another day. You will not soon forget the hours you spend crossing from North to South Maroon. Allow three or four hours for the traverse.


North Maroon

Notch

South Maroon

South to North

Essential Gear

 
Geared up!
Helmet. Rope recommended in spots for the traverse. Camera.

Miscellaneous Info

When we were at the lowest point of the saddle, a small airplane buzzed through the gap directly above our heads, seemingly at 14,000 ft. Not FAA-approved!

Images




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