From the sawmill flat campground, follow the trail up past the UCSB research station, continuing on toward the east ridge walk up route. Once to the pass, drop off the back side as if heading for the west ridge.
To the right of the west ridge is the nice, big S.W. face.

Route Description

The route starts ~200 yds to the right of the west ridge, in a dripping left facing dihedral. climb this, traverse right, and belay below the first 5.10 pitch. This pitch goes up, then moves up and left (10b), finishing by following slightly flared cracks to a belay on the right. the following pitches lead up a chimney, then a 10b offwidth, followed by a traverse right and a nice 10a face move past an old bolt to a stance. Follow the crack system above for several easier pitches to the summit area. Consult the published topo for further info. A nice medium long day for a car to car adventure (~8 hrs), although it is often given a grade V rating.

Essential Gear

Pro: small nuts to a #5 friend, and good judgement. This is an adult route.
In early season, a pair of instep crampons may be useful on the approach.

Miscellaneous Info

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