Approach
The approximation route is through Valley de las Vacas and Relinchos up to Plaza Argentina Superior.
Route Description
The East Glacier lies between the Polish Glacier and the South Wall, and it begins above 6.300 m, with a maximum slope between 60-65 degrees. The bottom stages do not pose great difficulty, its most complicated part lying at 6,200 m where a drop on the rock about 400 m high offers the greatest difficulty. The final part is reached very close to the summit along the edge of the Polish Glacier. This route was conquered for the first time in February 1978 by Argentine climbers Guillermo Vieyro, Jorge Jasson and Edgardo Porcellana.
Essential Gear
ice screaws, 60 m rope, all technical equipaments
Miscellaneous Info
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Images
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