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| Wrong Gully   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.56670°N / 105.4967°W Route Type: Steep rock gully Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: Class 4
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: truchas Created/Edited: Sep 14, 2003 / Sep 14, 2008 Object ID: 158792 Hits: 2439 Loading... Page Score: 86.18% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Introduction
This route is the location where John Boyles fell to his death in a stormy descent in August of 2003. This is not a gully you want to mess with in bad weather. A large party is not recommended because of the loose rock. The larger rocks are fairly stable, but there is quite a bit of loose gravel and rubble in places. CAUTION: This is obviously a dangerous route and should be attempted only by experience parties. Rock climbing experience is recommended. GET AN EARLY START TO AVOID AFTERNOON THUNDERSTORMS
The Rocky Mountain News posted this article about the accident:
"A Colorado Springs man who had climbed more than 20 of the state's Fourteeners fell 500 feet to his death while descending from Little Bear Peak near Alamosa in a thunderstorm.
John Boyles, 52, was climbing with his son, Aaron, 20, when the accident happened Saturday. Aaron Boyles said that electrical activity was fierce as he and his father tried to work their way down from the peak.
"One minute, it's nice and sunny, and the next, it changes to rain or hail, or sometimes even snow," he said.
In their rush to beat the storm, the two made a wrong turn down an avalanche chute, Alejo said.
When the climbers had descended to 13,000 feet, John Boyles came to a small cliff, skidded on slippery rocks and fell to a steep rock field below, Alejo said."
ApproachThis route follows the standard West Ridge route up to Como Lake. Continue on past Como lake for about 1/2 mile towards Blanca Peak.
Route DescriptionI discovered this route by accident. Gerry Roach's Colorado's Fourteeners guidebook describes a north facing gully to the south of the campsites above Como Lake as the standard route to begin the West Ridge route. I must have been camped a little higher because I was drawn to this gully which turns out to be the wrong one. It is the second gully (the first one looks 5th class and is wide at the bottom and narrow at the top) to the east of the standard route gully. It turned out to be a fun 4th class climb up to to Little Bear's West Ridge where it joins the West Ridge Route to the summit.
After scrambling up some scree, this gully begins with a natural bridge that you have to crawl under. Once past this natural bridge, a steep fourth class climb will take you up to the West ridge where it joins up with the standard West Ridge Route. Although this is a fourth class climb, some may find the climb more comfortable roped up. A route that keeps a little bit to the right of the center of the gully works best.
Essential GearThis is a fun fourth class climb, however, some parties may feel more comfortable roped up. Small parties are recommended. This gully is narrow and there are lots of small loose rocks that can be easily kicked down. Climbers should not climb directly above one another and helmets are a must. This gully route would best be done late in the summer to avoid too much snow.
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Sangre de Cristo Mountains
