| South Slopes via Kilpacker Creek Route |
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| South Slopes via Kilpacker Creek   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.83940°N / 108.0047°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Exposed Class 3
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Jul 9, 2003 / Jan 12, 2007 Object ID: 158290 Hits: 1700 Loading... Page Score: 86.22% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachSee the GETTING THERE section on the EL DIENTE MAIN PAGE.
Route DescriptionFrom the Kilpacker Creek trailhead, hike west-northwest on a well worn trail across meadows. The trail widens as it turns north, roundng a tree covered bluff (Point 10,939) in the first 2.7 miles. You'll make great time, but that's because you are gradually losing 400 feet in ups and downs. The loss is hardly noticed by the time you reach the Kilpacker Creek spur trail. A sign nailed to a tree indicates the Forest Service Road to the south, Navajo Lake to the north and Kilpacker Creek. Take the spur trail (right) to the east.
Crossing Kilpacker Creek is a minor challenge at mile 3.3. You then emerge and hike up through vast meadows, working your way northeast. At mile 4, excellent camping is available below the lower Kilpacker falls. The route makes a sharp left due north and climbs steep slopes among the trees to gain a quick 100 feet, then resumes an eastward course through trees and scrub brush, conturing along the stream.
Another steep climb up scree through the brush and willows follows, (a real test of your treads!) and at mile 4.5, you arrive at the beginning of the trip's longest segment: the seemingly endless talus of El Diente's south slopes. Proceed up the packed trail, and if you sense you're off route, look around for rock cairns. The route is very well marked.
You'll pass upper Kilpacker Creek falls on the south as you continue further up into the talus. In the upper reaches of the drainage, the Wilson massif is a great wasteland of rock devoid of life. Marmots, picas and squirrels are nowhere to be found in this lifeless domain.
After a mile of hiking up talus, at roughly 12,600 feet, angle north up El Diente's steep south slopes. More talus will greet you. Follow the cairns, and use the snowfields if they are present for easier climbing. The route winds around a small cliff band at 12,800 feet, where more snow may be present.
You'll arrive at the base of an orange colored rock rib rising up to your right. From this point, look for cairns leading to your left, angling up across the mountain's slope littered in loose, gray boulders. Despite the loose nature of the route, this is the way to go for an expedient climb of the mountain.
A more challenging and scenic route (blue route on map) climbs to the right up the rock rib on more solid Class 3 terrain. A narrow couloir on the left can also be followed. Snow may be present in this couloir, but the rock climbing on either side will probably go a bit better. At the top of the couloir, cairns will be seen to the right, wrapping around the rock rib out onto extremely exposed terrain on very loose rock. This route will eventually merge with the traverse route coming from Mount Wilson. You can also climb straight up Class 4 terrain on large, pleasantly stable boulders for about 50 feet. Above this, you intercept the traverse route and angle left toward the summit.
If you are following the expedient route from the base of the rock rib, move fast and light over unstable terrain, climbing toward El Diente's summit. Look for cairns, solid rock and areas that are stable or free of debris during this ascent. The orange colored formation known as the Organ Pipes will be seen above. Climb toward this formation.
Directly below the Organ Pipes, you'll find cairns marking the traverse route. Turn west (left), following the route just below a great orange rock with a ledge around it. This landmark marks the beginning of your descent when returning from the summit. Traverse beneath the ledge and continue toward the summit.
After a number of fun obstacles, ascend a narrow couloir filled with scree and loose rock. The climbing is good through here, but keep your group together and take care not to dislodge rocks in this section. The couloir climbs for about 100 feet and tops out in a tiny ledge saddle on the ridge.
The route crosses to the north side of the ridge. Some airy Class 3 climbing follows over stable rock, but loose rock is present. Proceed cautiously from one obstacle to the next. Footing is solid but limited in spots. Other narrow spots of scree are traversed over a ledge system skirting yawning chasms. Exposure is surprising and immediate along this fun stretch, but you must stay focussed on what you're doing.
Another STEEP couloir is then encountered. If snow is present, it is likely hardened to ice and should be avoided later in the summer. Climb up the left (east) side of the couloir over steep Class 3 rock, most of which is very solid. Several moves are almost Class 4 and route you in and out of the couloir for another 50 feet of gain.
At the top of the couloir, turn west once again and climb over a jumble of very solid rock. This is an airy move, which may be considered the crux for some people. This section is actually more exposed feeling on the return. The summit is then just steps beyond.
Return the same route, being sure to begin your descent at the landmark orange rock with the ledge around it, just below the Organ Pipes. A cairn may be visible below it marking your descent route, which leads to the base of the rock rib mentioned earlier. The rock rib will be visible from this landmark as well. Aim for the base (right end) of this rock rib, where the route returns to the infamous talus covered slopes.
Upon your return, the hike back to the car around Point 10,939 means regaining 400 feet, but it is gradual and hardly noticed unless you are completely exhausted-which is a distinct possibility. Oh well! Slog it out!
MILE & LOCATION
2.7 Kilpacker Spur Trail
3.3 Stream crossing
3.4 Meadows
4.0 Camp, steep climb through trees
4.4 Steep climb through willows on scree
4.5 Talus traverse through endless wasteland of rock
5.5 Beginning of climb on talus slopes
6.4 Summit
12.8 miles, 4,100 feet gain
Essential GearFairly new boots with plenty of good tread is absolutely essential for this climb. Although Class 3, every step on this climb counts. A slip or mistep could be disastrous or even fatal. Gloves are a must for cold weather since your hands will see a lot of action on the upper portions of this climb.
If snow is present, an ice axe is highly recommended for quick climbs on snow and safe glissades. Early season climbs (May-June) should also include crampons.
Otherwise, standard hiking gear will do. Late season climbs should include extra water, as the upper reaches will likely be dry and access to water won't be likely until you are below the upper falls.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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