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East/North Face via Music Pass
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East/North Face via Music Pass 

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.92440°N / 105.5397°W

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Class 3

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Aaron Johnson

Created/Edited: Oct 31, 2002 / Jan 19, 2007

Object ID: 157280

Hits: 1805 

Page Score: 86.64% - 2 Votes 

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Approach

From Westcliffe, drive 4.4 miles south on Highway 69. Turn right on Colfax Lane (R-119) and travel south 5.5 miles. As you drive south through the heart of the valley, you'll intercept Horn Road (Rd 130). From this point, it is 12 miles to the Music Pass trailhead. At 5.5 miles, the road tees.

Going right takes you to everybody's favorite 4WD road and access to the South Colony Lakes and the Crestones. Go left instead a quarter mile and then turn south. The road eventually becomes the Music Pass jeep trail (route 119) and seems to wander as it climbs through the forest. Bypassing a horse camp, the road becomes rougher. High clearance 4WD is required from this point for the last 2 miles. From where the road is ends, your hike and climb begins.

Route Description

Hike up the closed Music Pass road, now a trail, due west from the parking area. The 11,400' pass cuts through a clearing on a ridge before dropping gently into the Sand Creek drainage. Your first view of Tijeras will strike you, along with the other rugged peaks of the area. Follow the trail to a junction around a mile later, where another trail goes west (left) to Lower Sand Creek Lake. Take this trail ½ mile, staying on the north side of the lake. Good camping can be found near the lake. For this climb, camping on the north side is best.

Even though Tijeras is staring down at you, the massive vertical face defies an approach. Climb west-northwest through the trees and bushwack briefly through willows up good slopes. Timberline is soon gained as you enter a basin. You are below Music Mountain to the north and Tijeras to the south, but again your approach is defied by a sheer cliff band. Approach the cliffs while angling northwest and keep a sharp eye out for two ramps that until now have remained cleverly hidden during your approach. The south ramp is very steep and narrow, but another northern ramp further right on the face is the key to this route. Look for a large square boulder that's hard to miss at the base of the cliffs (it's the size of a two story building). To the left of this boulder is the ramp, which is also steep, but involves less climbing and exposure.

Tijeras Peak with the crux ramp route (center) marked by lingering snow
Photo by Ryan Schilling

Climb this north facing ramp. This hidden crux section of the route must be found in order for your climb to succeed. Terrain is Class 3, occasionally loose and quite steep. 200 feet later, you emerge onto a higher plateau of thinning tundra and increasing boulders littered on the slope. Tijeras’ north face will greet you. Note where the top of this ramp is for your return, especially if the weather goes sour.

A direct ascent due south from this point is feasible, probably through Class 3 and 4 terrain right at the top. This route takes a slight deviation. Aim south-southwest for the Tijeras northwest ridge to intercept at roughly 13,300 feet, climbing up through steeper tundra and rock. You can take the ridge up to the summit, but contouring a bit south through some Class 2+ scrambling makes this climb fun. When you are ready, climb east up steep and solid Class 2 rock for a finish you won’t soon forget. The Tijeras summit experience renders one speechless, and the remote feeling is very peaceful. Relish this moment on this impressive mountain.

Vernon Garner observes steep terrain on Tijeras Peak
Photo by Aaron Johnson

Vernon Garner descends the crux ramp section on Tijeras Peak
Photo by Aaron Johnson

Return the same route, regaining 300 feet in crossing back over Music Pass on an easy grade trail.

TRAILHEAD TO MUSIC PASS: 1.25 miles
SAND CREEK: 2 miles, 300 foot loss
TRAIL TO LOWER SAND CREEK LAKE: 2.7 miles
LOWER SAND CREEK LAKE: 3.4 miles
ENTER BASIN: 3.7 miles
RAMP: 4 miles
SUMMIT: 4.5 miles

ROUND TRIP TOTAL: 9 miles round trip 3,538 feet gain

Essential Gear

Standard hiking gear will do. Good boot soles highly recommended.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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