Approach

From Q Ishinca Base Camp walk on the N side of the sandy plain. Cross a stream and follow cairns up the valley to the E between two large moraines. Turn N up the steep crest of a moraine which can be followed to gain the glacier to the right of rocky cliffs, 2h. Ascent the gentle glacial slopes to camp 1 (5.300m), 3-4h total.

Route Description

Obvious line starting from the base of the west face. Depending on the season it might not be possible to attempt it; the later the season the worst. It is recomended a very early start to avoid a very soupy-snow ascent. From camp 1 (5.300m) traverse rightwards under the West Face and climb a line on the South end wich skirts the upper serac barrier on the right to join the south ridge 100m from the summit, 5-7 h from camp. And climb the snow mushroom.

Descent abseiling the snow mushroom summit and descent the NW ridge.

Essential Gear

The usual gear for a snow an ice climb. Crampons, ice axes, a few ice screws ( We never used them on the route because it got really soupy and dangerous), rope and snow-stakes.

Red Tape

There are no proper fees to climb the mountain, although you will be asked for a little money the day you sign up in Collon in order to keep the trail to BC in good shape.

Miscellaneous Info

It is a highly recomended route.

Although BC is not a cold camp, Camp1, 5.300 m. can get really cold on a windy day.

Best to climb in June-July, some seasons it can be climbed in August.

Suggestions

• Not far from Huaraz there are some sport climbing crags and boulders, look for: Recuay, Huanchac, Masuan, Monterrey y Laguna de Llanganuco.
• In Huaraz there are also some climbing stores that are not cheap.
• The notice board of Casa de Guias in Huaraz has a similar function to the one in Yosemite´s Camp 4. Also 'Casa de Guias' is the place to get information related to mountain and weather conditions.
• I suggest to use public transportation or 'Colectivos'.
• There is a very much trusted laundry service named 'B & B' located at 674, Av. José de la Mar.
• There are Internet facilities all over Huaraz.
• Best if you treat all water before you drink it.

Books & Climbing Magazines

• “Escaladas en los Andes (Guía de la Cordillera Blanca)” by Juan José Tomé Ñacle, Ed. Desnivel 1999.
• “La Cordillera Blanca de los Andes” by Antonio Gómez Bohórquez and Juan José Tomé Ñacle, Ed. Desnivel April 1998.
• Juanjo Tome´s article about La Cordillera Blanca published in the climbing magazine: Desnivel #140, may 1998.
• Rock&Ice #71 & #88, there is information relating La Cordillera Blanca.
• “Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru” by David M. Sharman, Ed. Whizzo Climbs 1995.
• “The High Andes (A Guide for Climbers)” by John Biggar, Ed. Andes 1996.
• “Yuraq Janka” de John F. Ricker, Ed. ¿? 1977.

Information

All info gathered by:
Jonás Cruces
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor
This is his website: www.todovertical.com

Images