Same approach as for Owen Spalding and Exum Ridge (in other words, approach via the Lower Saddle (elev 11,650 ft) between the Grand and Middle Teton). Alternate, and not nearly as friendly, approach is toward the ranger hut east of the south ridges -- I won't include details because it's really pointless to approach that way.

From Lower Saddle ascend the OS trail for a couple hundred feet until you reach the Black Dike (which doesn't look like a typical dike, more like a horizontal stretch of blocky, black rock. Just before you reach the dike, follow a faint climbers trail east (right) and traverse toward the three south ridges (in order from left to right: Exum, Petzoldt, Underhill).

Snow/ice is likely through mid summer in Stettner Coulior (between Petzoldt Ridge and Underhill Ridge).

Route Description

Head up the snow or loose scree of Stettner Coulior, and continue past a large boulder that appears to be wedged in the coulior like a chockstone. Find the path of least resistance up the rock on your left for the 1st pitch which should be a scrambling traverse up and left onto the face. Teton Classics refers to a black 5.5 chimney that you climb through on the 1st pitch, but this is a dubious description. The most important thing -- stay right. There is a large, left-facing open book above and that's what you want to head for. If you start trending too far left, you will end up on Petzoldt Direct (III 5.7).

Teton Classics notes that there are several options on the route as far as actual lines taken and location of belays. With that in mind and noting that the routefinding is quite difficult, I repeat that the key is to stay right. The next two pitches entailed the most difficult of the routefinding for us. As such I've included the recommended route for pitches 2 and 3 from Teton Classics, even though we did not do it this way. Average pitch length ~150 feet.

The 2nd pitch climbs the open book (5.4) up to a roof.

Pitch 3 climbs through the roof and up a crack (5.5).

Pitch 4 takes you up through somewhat runout terrain to a beautiful ledge to the left of a large roof (5.5). Take a load off, relax, enjoy the sun, maybe take a bite and relieve yourself at this most luxurious of belay ledges. All that's missing is the bartender.

Pitch 5 climbs the chimney directly above and left of the ledge, then follows the ridge line to the top. With a 60m rope we were (barely) able to make it to the rappel anchors on the other side of the top and belay from them.

Upon reaching the top, rappel anchors can be found just on the other side and down about 6 feet. There is a nice footledge to stand on. Rappel down to the col between Petzoldt and Exum Ridge. Climb the lefthand couloir in about a pitch and a half of scrambling and low class 5 (there may be snow/ice earlier in season).

Approximate time to here from Lower Saddle: don't underestimate the route-finding, allow at least 6 hours.

From there you can walk all the way around to the left past the Golden Stair and rappel down to Wall Street and descend back to the Lower Saddle, or you can continue to the summit via Upper Exum Ridge. Note: if you decide to descend via Wall St, Teton Classics describes the rappel to Wall Street as being 60 feet -- from where we rappeled it was more like 45-50 meters, so use caution and tie two ropes together if necessary.

Essential Gear

Rack: lots of small and mid-sized pro (takes nuts very well).
8-10 extenders/runners.
2 x 60m half ropes (possibility of long rappels).
Except late season, crampons and ice axe may be necessary (check with Ranger Station at Jenny Lake).
Spare webbing and biners.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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