From U.S. 36 and Colorado 7 in Estes Park, go south on Colorado 7 9.2 miles to the turn-off for the Longs Peak Ranger station. Take this road to the trailhead, 1 mile.

Below is a map and photo illustrating the Loft Route. Click on the map for detail and descriptions. The photo illustrates the Loft Route on the southwest face of the mountain, including the desecnt from the Loft, the climb of the Pallisades and the Homestretch.

Route Description

This route is an execution of the route as described by Gerry Roach in his book "Colorado's Fourteeners, From Hikes to Climbs". It is also an affirmation that the route goes very well and is a pleasant alternative to the Keyhole. The good news is there is less mileage--a mile--which makes a big difference at the end of a long day on Longs Peak. The extra good news is that you can return via the Keyhole and do a spectacular round trip of the mountain.

From the trailhead, follow the trail 4.5 miles to Chasm Meadows below Chasm Lake. You'll bypass the trail that would take you to the Keyhole, at "Sky Potty Junction." The trail will also skirt through a spectacular slope before reaching the old stone cabin (recently destroyed in a massive avalanche that ran down the Loft in the Spring of 2003) beneath Chasm Lake. Bypass the trail to Chasm Lake, climbing toward Mt. Meeker. Bypassing the great buttress of the Ship's Prow, you'll enter the spectacular bowled basin below Mt. Meeker. Climb westward through mountain debris, which gives way to steep rock slabs as the bowl narrows below the Loft. There is usually a large snowfield below the Loft, which you climb toward.

The Class 3 climbing begins, winding up the south side of a gully through the rocks. Be on the watch for a wide ledge that leads south (left) and up across a great cliff face. This ledge is strewn with tundra and boulders and is not dangerous or difficult in summer conditions. Follow this ledge for 150 yards and cut back north on a smaller, tundra covered ledge across another rock face. This ledge is about two feet wide but exposure is not bad and the traverse is not difficult. You'll then encounter a large boulder field and talus slopes, which you climb to achieve the Loft. You'll be south of the great snowfield here, so readily visible from many points far below.

The Loft is a great flat saddle between Meeker and Longs, and it's a good place to take a break. Proceed over to the northwestern edge and drop down the slope, which is surprisingly loose. In some places, the scree is very deep and pleasant, but the idea of climbing up this slope is not very appealing. According to Gerry Roach, you can drop 100 feet down to Clark's Arrow, painted on a smooth, west-facing slab at the bottom of the scree gully. We never found the arrow, apparently a common experience. We dropped between 100 and 150 feet and turned right (north) and made our way through an impressive (and fun) maze of boulders the size of houses. The key to this section is to be sure not to cut north too soon or you end up in very diificult terrain involving exposed Class 4 climbing. The idea is to drop far enough to get below the immense Pallisades buttress before going right and getting around it.

Then the real fun begins. We estimate this next section to be 1500 feet of vertical Class 3 climbing, and it is a real treat. The rock is solid, but lose rock is certainly a hazard. This long haul climbs up beneath the impressive north wall of the Pallisades, a towering monolith of stone that is staggering in size. At 13,600 feet, the Notch will be visible above you. Angle northwest (left) on good Class 3 rock and join the Keyhole Route, just south of the Homestretch, at 13,900 feet. Climbers on the Keyhole route will be visible. From here, the route joins the Homestretch for the final ascent to the summit.

Returning via the Loft would be fun and minimize the mileage, but reclimbing the loose scree field would be the admission price. Because of all the climbing involved (twice as much as the Keyhole), the route isn't nearly as crowded as the standard route, so relative solitude is your reward. If you like scrambling, this is a very fun route. Combined with the Keyhole route for the return certainly qualifies the route as a "classic," as Gerry Roach suggests.

Experience in Class 3 climbing and considerable exposure is recommended before attempting. Start EARLY EARLY EARLY (2AM). Route finding will be a factor in your time, particularly below the Pallisades as you drop from the Loft.

Mileage (as stated in Roach's book):
Round trip on the Loft Route: 12.6 miles
Round trip tour via the Loft, Keyhole finish: 13.8 miles
Time: Give yourself a good margin and plan between 10 and 12 hours in case some route finding exercises are encountered below the Pallisades. This section differs for folks.

Mount Meeker can be climbed via the Loft Route.

More Loft Route Photos

Legendary and elusive Clark's Arrow

Narrow grass covered ledge on the Loft Route

Photo by Aaron Johnson, Summer, 2000

Click on these pictures if you did not click on the links while reading the above text. These pictures illustrate the conditions you will encounter on the Loft Route.

Essential Gear

Standard hiking gear is appropriate. Layered clothing, stocking cap and gloves recommended. There are no appreciable water sources on the Loft route, and water will not be available on the Keyhole downclimb until the Boulderfield (maybe). Don't count on it, so bring plenty of water and food and plan on a full day. Bring a flashlight or headlamp for the early morning walk from the trailhead.

The Loft has been climbed in the winter, not always successfully. Full winter gear and rope & rack would be mandatory. Expect extremes in arctic alpine conditions.

Weather, Ranger Station & Conditions

The Loft route would be real ugly in bad weather. There are no places to bail in bad weather, either. If caught in bad weather on the Loft or Keyhole route, remain on the route. Retreating by retracing your steps from the Loft itself is feasible. If you are below the Loft and the Pallisades, climb back up and over the Loft to retreat. If climbing up along the Pallisades toward the Homestretch, a retreat route will be a difficult call and would depend on your group's collective ability. Downclimbing and climbing the scree to the Loft could make sense if you are not too far into the Pallisade climb. If you are higher in the climb, near the summit, returning via the Keyhole route is recommended.

Valuable advice can be had at the ranger station at the trailhead. If your schedule allows, be sure to visit the station after your climb (if you can stand). The displays about the mountain and its history are very good, and a relief table of the mountain helps set your route and orientation in perspective.

The rangers at the station will usually have an official statement concerning conditions on the mountain. The Keyhole or Loft route may be considered a "technical route" due to snow, ice or other factors. This could be the case, even if it is a minor patch of snow in the Trough. The rangers must classify the route by the most difficult section or condition on the route at the time. If you have any doubt on your group's ability to execute this (or any) climb in unforseen circumstances, do not attempt the climb until more experience is acquired.

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