From Interstate 5 in Burlington take WA 20 (North Cascades Highway) towards Sedro Woolley. Drive 47 miles to Marblemount and then get off on the Cascade River Road. Take this for 22 miles to a turnout (elevation 3,200 feet) beneath the impressive Northeast Face of Johannesburg Mountain.

Follow the climbers trail (originally a road to the Diamond Mine .75 miles above) to the vicinity of the mine site and then traverse open slopes. The climber’s trail is wiped out due to a large avalanche slide from Spring 2002. Continue North for approximately a half mile and cross four streams. A switchback trail leads to a moraine at 5,300 feet where multiple campsites and a compost toilet are located. a second camping area is located at 6,400 feet but remains snow covered until later in season.

Cross the Quien Sabe glacier to the Sahale - Boston col which makes an excellent bivy site. From the col ascend a large chossy southern sub peak of Boston Peak and then descend to the Boston Glacier at the level of the Ripsaw Ridge.

Route Description

After traversing the upper Boston Glacier the East Ridge is gained and followed up loose and dangerous rock towards the main summit to the south. As the climb progresses the quality of the rock improves and three notches are overcome until the main summit is encountered. A few mid - fifth class moves are required but the most dangerous aspect of this climb is the lose rock one has to contend with.

The summit has a large Mazama Register. The views of Sahale, Mount Buckner, Forbidden Peak, Eldorado and distant peaks are spectacular. There is a double rappel to the Boston Glacier off of the Southeast face. A large ledge is located at the second rappel station.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons. rope, small rack, crevasse rescue equipment

Miscellaneous Info

Images