Start at the Lupine meadows trailhead, as for Exum ridge. Camping is best in Garnet Canyon meadows, though the summit day is a long one starting from such a low elevation. Camping is also possible on the moraine on the way up to the lower saddle, where most people choose to camp before summit day.

Route Description

From the lower saddle, head up a climbers path toward a prominent black dike. After crossing the dike continue up and left on broken 3rd class rock, with the occasional 4th class section. (see photo #653) If you come upon difficult chimneys, move to the left. Follow the easiest line of ascent until reaching a small (upper) saddle with a sub-peak off to the left (west). From here, one can catch glimpses down the Black Ice coulior, and see Cascade Canyon.

Rope up here, and traverse up and along the western wall to the exciting belly crawl. This is a ledge squeezed by an overhanging wall. While many crawl, half on the ledge, half hanging over, others find it easier (and more elegant) to use the ledge for handholds, and traverse on small but adequate footholds.
After the belly crawl is the technical crux of the climb. This chimney is probably 5.3 or so, more exciting if ice filled. When this chimney ends, traverse left up into a second chimney for another half pitch of fun climbing, then scramble up and slightly left over broken rock and slabs to the summit.

Descent: Walk and downclimb the broken rock and slabs as per the OS route, but before reaching the top of the chimney, traverse to the south until reaching a ledge with a fat bolt anchor. A full 50 meter overhanging rappel reaches non technical ledges, traverse slightly to the west to rejoin the ascent route.

Essential Gear

Ice Axe, Crampons, A light rack: Medium to large stoppers, 3 or 4 cams from 3\4 to 2 inches. The rappel takes two ropes, so using two thin ropes is ideal.
If camping in Garnet canyon meadows, bring a stout container for your food. The marmots are persistent, clever, and obnoxious. Hanging your food may or may not work, these rodents are professionals!

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images



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