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| SW Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Switzerland, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.56670°N / 7.98330°E Route Type: Basic Rock/Snow Climb Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: WS / III
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| Page By: kletterwebbi, Moni Created/Edited: Apr 24, 2002 / Jan 12, 2007 Object ID: 156398 Hits: 2560 Loading... Page Score: 86.93% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachThe climb starts near the Jungfraujoch. To reach the Jungfraujoch most people use the Jungfraujoch-Bahn from Grindelwald / Kleine Scheidegg.
If you're tough, you hike up to the Jungfraujoch 8 to 12 hours from Rhonetal or from Lötschental (A big, epic thing, I wouldn't do that).
A good start point is the Mönchsjochhütte, 1/2-3/4 hour directly west from the Jungfraujoch. Route DescriptionFrom the Jungfraujoch you turn left from the trail to the Mönchsjochhütte. After about 200 m turn left and go directly to the base of the SW-Ridge (most of the time you'll find a path). Until now the bergschrund has been easy.
You reach this point from the Mönchsjochhütte in the opposite way : go down the trail, somewhat before the Jungfraujoch turn right to reach the start of the SW-Ridge.
From the start of the ridge you scramble up some easy rock. After some easy pitches you reach a kind of a step, this is the most difficult point of the route (rock climbing up to UIAA Grade III). After this step mainly follow the ridge.
Use a gully to go up a region of loose rock. Now you are at the base of a very steep aprt of the ridge. To avoid this turn left for about one pitch.
Finally you reach the upper snow part of the SW-ridge, the route there joins with the Nollen-Route. Go up the easy but somewhat exposed snow fields up to the summit.
Desenct the regular route.
Essential GearRope, Ice Axe (one), Crampons, depending on your rock climbing possibilites you will need some rocks or friends.
Miscellaneous InfoIt's a common idea to do that route starting from the Jungfraujoch using the first train to Jungfraujoch. This is ok only if you know what you're doing and if you are able to do the route very fast.
You normally will desenct the regular route, but this is one of the most dangerous easy routes in the Berner Alps. There are many (many !!!) accidents, very much of them deadly ! The risk rises the later you are because of the snow getting soft at the snow part of the regular route. Also there are a lot of people at the regular route without any expirience in mountaineering.
Better start at the Mönchsjochhütte very early.
Over all this is a very beatifull, not so difficult route, I enjoyed it very much.
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Bernese Alps
