Approach
Access by Red Lake, standard approach.
Route Description
Make your way from Red Lake up the basin directly towards the bases of the East couloir and St Jeans couloirs. Steep slopes lead to the debris cones at the bases of the couloirs. A steep section (65) of snow/ice at the entrance of the east couloir leads to the steep snow in the couloir. About 300 feet or so later a rock step blocks the path. This can be passed on the right by a short water ice pitch or on the left by as NARROW chimmney (about 2 feet across) with several steps in it. Above, the steep snow continues with several undulations, but for the most part, constant. At the notch head right (north) to the higher north peak. Descent via the north slope back down to Red Lake
Essential Gear
Usual Sierra class 3/4 equipment.
Poor / little pro in couloir- don't bother, you won't need it.
Ice tools for the steep ice.
Crampons helpful
HELMET! The couloir is a bowling alley.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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