Approach
During summer, most people climb Wildspitze on this route. So expect to see many people, not all of them reasonable equipped and prepared.
From Vent to Breslauer Hut on the well marked path (2 hours). You may shorten the ascent by using the Stablein lift. Most people sleep at the Breslauer Hut and climb the Wildspitze the next day.
Route Description
From the Hut to the Mitterkarferner (marked path on moraines and scree). The Mitterkarferner has receded quite a bit.
Then climb the steep snow slope (~ 45 degrees) up to Mitterkarjoch. If it is too icy late in the season (September), it may be recommendable to climb instead the rocks left from the snow (some bolts).
Having reached the Taschachferner, there is no big obstacle to reach the summit. Just a basic glacier walk (but beware of crevasses) to the foot of the west ridge.
On ice on scree up to the south summit. The traverse to the North summit is an ice ridge (a bit exposed)
Essential Gear
all the essentials for glacier travel: ice axe, crampons, harness, rope
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
|