Approach
Approach Via St. Mary Glacier
Route Description
Summited James several times as a training hike and winter training hike for S. American peaks. Perfect for easy access and tough conditions training. If climbing in bad conditions please keep a bearing on the big rock out-croppng at the top of the glacier. It can be seen coming down and if you head directly toward it, you will head down the correct drainage back to the glacier. The glacier is actually a permant snow field, devoid of any crevasse or ice fall seracs. Summited James via Shooting Star Couloir in 1999. Execellent snow climb. When we climbed in July it was a mix mess of ice, snow and rock so come prepared for anything, even maybe a small rock rack. Earlier in the season it is an excellent snow route and highly recommended. Drop down into the gully on the right as you come to the base of the peak, which is directly at the back of the top of St.Marys glacier. Climb the obvious couloir to the left of the peak face. Consult Roach's Guide to the Indian peaks for more specific details. Highly recommeded day of fun!"
Essential Gear
Ice Axe, Crampons, harness for self belay and several packets of GU!
Miscellaneous Info
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Indian Peaks (CO)
