Very impressive classic snow and ice ridge on the foot of mighty Dent du Géant. Main difficulty are the picturesque cornices on both sides. Partially very narrow and exposed. AD, with short sections II and I (on the final rocks to reach the summit). Ascent to the Sella á Manger 550 m (2-3 h). The ridge itself 200m, length 800m. 1½-3h.
From Torino Hut cross to the Col du Géant (3365m) and head north-eastwards round the rock spur of the Aiguilles Marbrées into the wide snow basin under the Col de Rochefort. Past this col and continue in the same direction up to the base of the prominent Aiguille du Géant. First of all, climb the snow couloir (excellent glissading potential durind descent) to the foot of a distinct gendarme. It is also possible to climb on the left of s couloir on the easy rocks. From there move across and climb on the right couloir, up to the broad main ridge. Move up the ridge turning gendarme on the right (east) to gain the Salle á Manger (breakfast place) below the South Face of the Deant du Géant (2-3 hours from the hut).
From Salle á Manger starts the actual Arête. Climb on ridge to middle summit (3933m). On the other side descent steeply on snow and follow shard ridge to the final rocks of Aiguille de Rochefort. Traverse to right to a vague couloir and climb steeply up on somewhat loose rock with big holds (II). The right route might be a bit hard to find. It is also possible to climb directly up from the ridge (II-III).
Ari - Feb 13, 2002 11:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentVery impressive classic snow and ice ridge on the foot of mighty Dent du Géant. Main difficulty are the picturesque cornices on both sides. Partially very narrow and exposed. AD, with short sections II and I (on the final rocks to reach the summit). Ascent to the Sella á Manger 550 m (2-3 h). The ridge itself 200m, length 800m. 1½-3h.
From Torino Hut cross to the Col du Géant (3365m) and head north-eastwards round the rock spur of the Aiguilles Marbrées into the wide snow basin under the Col de Rochefort. Past this col and continue in the same direction up to the base of the prominent Aiguille du Géant. First of all, climb the snow couloir (excellent glissading potential durind descent) to the foot of a distinct gendarme. It is also possible to climb on the left of s couloir on the easy rocks. From there move across and climb on the right couloir, up to the broad main ridge. Move up the ridge turning gendarme on the right (east) to gain the Salle á Manger (breakfast place) below the South Face of the Deant du Géant (2-3 hours from the hut).
From Salle á Manger starts the actual Arête. Climb on ridge to middle summit (3933m). On the other side descent steeply on snow and follow shard ridge to the final rocks of Aiguille de Rochefort. Traverse to right to a vague couloir and climb steeply up on somewhat loose rock with big holds (II). The right route might be a bit hard to find. It is also possible to climb directly up from the ridge (II-III).
Ari - Feb 14, 2002 12:16 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentFotogalerie des AACZ - several very fine pictures of the Rochefort Arête.