"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."
--Ernest Hemingway
© 2006-2021 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.
astrange - May 2, 2016 9:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010
ClassicHuge Classic - Great route!
MtnMagic - Oct 7, 2013 4:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2013
RebuffatSuperb climbing, well protected. Just plain fun.
Alberto Rampini - Sep 2, 2012 10:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1982
RebuffatA great route.
lavaka - Aug 1, 2012 2:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2012
Great routeWith Garrett. Did the original/direct start and found this to be very hard; tried the crux several times, then aided it, and it felt like 6a (5.10a) *with* pulling on gear. In contrast, the "6a" pitches afterwards felt much, much easier (took me 50 min to lead the first pitch, about 8 minutes to lead the 2nd "crux" pitch).
Also for the direct start, this topo suggested you go straight up to the little pillar just below the crux. I looked at this, and it's doable, and you could take a small traverse left just below the pillar where it looked like you'd get gear. But turns out you can't get gear there; much better to go about 15 feet left, go up, and then traverse right to the pillar.
For the upper route, I made a little topo that shows how we did the upper section. There's a fantastic large crack/dihedral on basically the last pitch.
PeteThompson - Aug 27, 2010 11:22 am
South Face, Rebuffat. Climbed July 1986Climbed with German guy as a warm up for the Gervasutti. Nice route.
pablo - Aug 23, 2010 3:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
South Face, Rebuffat2 ropes with Nico and Aure; and Francois, Florence and I got up in this thrilling, superb and demanding climb. Probably the best rock-climb ever !
granjero - Sep 9, 2009 9:51 pm
Awesome!France's version of Third Pillar, except with beer at the top!
Jeroen Vels - Jul 31, 2006 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006
Fun route!!!Climbed it on the first day I was in Chamonix. Hard work without proper acclimatisation ;-)