Heading home after summitting Ron the Alpaca. Brilliantly, we took only one 60m rope in order to save a bit of weight, so the descent took...somewhat longer that we would have liked.
The in-situ rap anchors were text-book wtf: thin tattered cord tied in knots set in (seriously) razor sharp cracks; single No.2 nuts rattling around in bad horizontals, slings girth-hitched through rusty wires, and my personal favorite, rotten cord through single No.2 angle pitons that popped out when we looked at it too hard (we pulled them out with our fingers)
Could we have used any or all of those? Sure. Did we? No flipping way! We gladly left a ton of gear building new anchors, which we later found out another party stripped two days later and used the old anchors. How many times can you roll the dice before you lose?
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