seano - Nov 6, 2012 10:17 am Date Climbed: Nov 4, 2012
Meh
We climbed it as six pitches on a 50m with the Mountain Beast sport-climbing exit: Link P1 and P2 with simuling (or scramble most of P1), combine P3-P5 into two pitches, then one long and one short pitch to the big tree ledge. The walk-off and climb are very scenic, but the climbing itself is inconsistent and often mediocre. Handren gives it 3 stars, but it was not nearly as good as Black Magic and Dark Shadows, two other 3-star 5.8s. The crux sections are the surprisingly steep corner on (the guidebook's) P2, two short parts of P6 and, if you're short, the awkward start of P3. Trip report.
fossana - Jan 24, 2011 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Jan 23, 2011
great route
With Jascha. Good call on the ball nuts, Dow.
Liba Kopeckova - Oct 7, 2009 8:51 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2009
great climb
I am not sure if I can sign the log since Dow lead the way. I felt like a lady who had a gentleman ahead finding out the way - haha. The climb was beautiful, and the whole Oak Creek canyon is very spectacular and peaceful.
Dow Williams - Oct 7, 2009 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2009
Rainbow Buttress
Hard to beat the day we had, with Liba. Perfect weather, company and terrain. Oak Creek is prob the most enjoyable full length canyon (your descent) of all of Red Rocks. We did this in 10+ hrs and never climbed together before and took plenty of breaks, this is more of a II-III day vs IV. The rock was quite stellar and pitches 2, 3 and 6 were very good for the grade by Red Rocks standards. I took a slide nut for that thin section on 6 and it fit the bill. Single rack worked great all day. Quite a few trees to sling as well.
seano - Nov 6, 2012 10:17 am Date Climbed: Nov 4, 2012
MehWe climbed it as six pitches on a 50m with the Mountain Beast sport-climbing exit: Link P1 and P2 with simuling (or scramble most of P1), combine P3-P5 into two pitches, then one long and one short pitch to the big tree ledge. The walk-off and climb are very scenic, but the climbing itself is inconsistent and often mediocre. Handren gives it 3 stars, but it was not nearly as good as Black Magic and Dark Shadows, two other 3-star 5.8s. The crux sections are the surprisingly steep corner on (the guidebook's) P2, two short parts of P6 and, if you're short, the awkward start of P3. Trip report.
fossana - Jan 24, 2011 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Jan 23, 2011
great routeWith Jascha. Good call on the ball nuts, Dow.
Liba Kopeckova - Oct 7, 2009 8:51 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2009
great climbI am not sure if I can sign the log since Dow lead the way. I felt like a lady who had a gentleman ahead finding out the way - haha. The climb was beautiful, and the whole Oak Creek canyon is very spectacular and peaceful.
Dow Williams - Oct 7, 2009 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2009
Rainbow ButtressHard to beat the day we had, with Liba. Perfect weather, company and terrain. Oak Creek is prob the most enjoyable full length canyon (your descent) of all of Red Rocks. We did this in 10+ hrs and never climbed together before and took plenty of breaks, this is more of a II-III day vs IV. The rock was quite stellar and pitches 2, 3 and 6 were very good for the grade by Red Rocks standards. I took a slide nut for that thin section on 6 and it fit the bill. Single rack worked great all day. Quite a few trees to sling as well.