Parinacota Climber's Log

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FrançoisJ

FrançoisJ - Feb 15, 2006 5:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2005

Route Climbed : Normal Bolivian side  Sucess!

Pika and I circled round the crater rim of Parinacota on 28th of july 2005. As I wanted to know where really was located the highest point of its crater, I brought my GPS with me. It appears that neither north summit nor south summit is the real summit, not because they have rather equal height (6347 m vs 6348 m, +/- 1 m, who can tell?) but because North-west summit is about 10 meters higher than both of them (6357 m).
Absolute heights may not be accurate but differences of height could be considered such as.
Many thanks to Pika and all Planetaventura(.com) team!

Guillaume.Ceyrac

Guillaume.Ceyrac - Jan 16, 2006 10:32 am

Route Climbed: Bolivian Date Climbed: 12 October 2006  Sucess!

Went back there, but this time from the bolivian side, and this time summit ! Went up in 7 hours from the base camp located between Pomerape and Parinacota. Perfect weather, a bit of cold before sunrise and penitents on the last 300 meters. Amazing views of the crater and of Sajama.



I did the climb with Ignacio, a "guide" from Sajama village (approx 100 USD, including 4x4 approach from/to Sajama).

Bergrot

Bergrot - Oct 24, 2005 12:37 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Bolivia Date Climbed: 7 Nov 2002  Sucess!

Walked solo from Sajama to the camp below the col. Needed two days because I walked the direct line from Sajama to the col and crossed a lot of old, dusty lava streams. Enough snow for cooking close to the camp on the Pomerape side of the valley. In 7 hrs from camp to summit in a clear, sunny and warm day ( -2°C). The surprising appearance of the huge summit crater was one of the most exciting moments in my mountaineering life. Had a great view up to the Cordillera Real ~200km away. No one else at the mountain at this time.

Josh

Josh - Sep 24, 2005 6:18 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Gully Date Climbed: Sept 21 2005  Sucess!

Lots of snow made this one a real marathon. I often fell to my knees and a few times to my waist in the deep powder. I wish I had my board and I could have ripped a nice 1200m line down!!!

Technically very easy, but I recommend sticking to the rock rib, it will be a lot faster, and the only choice when there isn't much snow. It also appeared that an approach from Chile and Lago Chungara would be much shorter and the routes similar, just a a longer but easy traverse along the crater to the summit.

Guillaume.Ceyrac

Guillaume.Ceyrac - Aug 24, 2005 3:20 am

Route Climbed: Chilean side Date Climbed: August 2004

Went there with PO and Eric, also from France. We took a guide at Putre (the owner of agency Aymaruta in Putre) and went at a BC at approx. 5000m. to spend the night. Next morning, we began to climb at 4 O'clock. We had 2 hours of climb on big rocks, sometimes a bit steep, before arriving at snow (at around 5700m). The snow was very icy and with little grietas everywhere. As the slope was becoming quite steep for these snow conditions, I told the guide that we should use a rope... He went a bit embarassed to tell us that he had forgot the rope at BC... I decided to go back.

I am returning there in October 2005 on the bolivian side.



My message is clear : unless they changed radicaly, don't attempt Parinacota with this company (Aymaruta) ! They were expensive, they provided poor equipment, they had very poor skills in mountainering and no experience of guiding people.

althegreek

althegreek - Aug 18, 2005 4:19 pm

Route Climbed: from the west(no route name) Date Climbed: may 29 2005  Sucess!

we decided to climb from the west side of the mountain. its a perfect cone so you can basically ascend from where ever you want. our route went up a steep gully full of penitentes. i don´t recommend this route due to the bad snow conditions and a super long approach. go from the south or from bolivia.

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