The highest mountain in North America, Mt. McKinley has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913. Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its weather and ease of access, some climbers use McKinley as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest.

Most climbers ascend McKinley via the West Buttress route because it is relatively free of objective hazards and technical sections. The relative ease of the route combined with the number of middle-aged amateurs attempting it prompted one climber to call McKinley, "the Mid-Life Crisis Mountain." That being said, the West Buttress is very unforgiving of mistakes and even the most experienced climbers have failed or died on this route. Other popular routes of ascent include the Muldrow Glacier, the West Rib, the Cassin Ridge, and the South Buttress.

Mt. McKinley is also known by its Athabascan name Denali meaning "The Great One" and some climbers refuse to use "McKinley" when referring to this mountain. In fact, at least half a dozen names exist for the highest mountain in North America and most translate to "The Great One". The Americans are the only ones who bucked this trend and named it after some mediocre President from Ohio. Ever since the mountain's name was changed to McKinley, an effort has been under way to change it back to Denali. The State of Alaska now recognizes it as Denali and the Feds have changed the name of the national park in which Denali is the main attraction to Denali National Park. Congress, however, has shown little interest in changing the mountain's name.

The earliest attempts at climbing Denali began in the late-1800's. In 1906, Frederick Cook claimed the first ascent, but his claim was later discredited after his "summit" photos were proven to be from the summit of an insignificant peaklet more than 10 miles away from Denali's true summit. In 1910, a team of four "sourdoughs" with no previous mountaineering experience managed to climb the lower North Peak of Denali. Their claims were dismissed until later climbers found a 14-foot spruce pole they had erected near its summit.

The first documented ascent occurred in 1913 when a team led by Hudson Stuck reached the South Summit. Other notable ascents include Bradford Washburn's first ascent of the West Buttress in 1951 which later became the standard route of ascent. The first winter ascent was accomplished on February 28, 1967 and is documented in the mountaineering classic, MINUS 148. In 1998, three Russians made the first January ascent of Denali, a time of the year when the mountain receives only five hours of sunlight a day (click on this link for the press release: Mountain Zone).

Routes

Climbers interested in more detailed discussions of Denali�s routes should consult HIGH ALASKA or the MOUNT MCKINLEY CLIMBER'S HANDBOOK. HIGH ALASKA also includes detailed descriptions of routes on nearby Mount Hunter and Mount Foraker. DENALI'S WEST BUTTRESS is the best source for information on the West Buttress route. The American Alpine Club Journal contains detailed trip reports on Denali�s more technical routes.

WEST BUTTRESS

The West Buttress has been derided as �the Denali Iditarod�, �the Scenic Loop�, and �the Handicapped Access Ramp�. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of �The Butt� leave very little margin for error. Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to McKinley's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses. Denali�s unusually high casualty list is due in large part to inexperienced or exhausted climbers tripping on a crampon tip and falling off seemingly easy snow/ice slopes.

The most popular camps are located at 7,200 ft (base camp); 7,800 ft; 9,500 ft; 11,000 ft; 14,200 ft; and 17,200 ft, some of which are equipped with latrines. Other camps are located at 12,500 ft and 16,000 ft, but should only be used under ideal weather conditions as the 12,500 ft camp is vulnerable to avalanches and the 16,000 ft camp is very exposed to high winds. The 11,000 ft camp also experiences avalanches and serac fall, and care should be taken to avoid these two hazards when setting up camp. Above 14,200 ft, snow caves or igloos are usually constructed as a back up shelter in case bad weather moves in.

Total horizontal length of the West Buttress route is approximately 13 miles with about 13,500 ft of vertical gain. Between base camp and 11,000 ft, the route is relatively flat and the main hazards are crevasse falls. Above 11,000 ft, the route steepens to moderate slopes (35-45 degrees) alternating with flat benches and bowls. Equipment and supplies are typically carried by sled to 11,000 ft. Above 11,000 ft, gear and food are usually ferried between camps in two trips.

West Buttress expeditions average around 16-17 days, but climbers should take at least 3 weeks of supplies. A 2-3 day supply of food and fuel should be left at base camp in case weather prevents planes from landing on the glacier (climbers have been stranded for as long as 2 weeks due to inclement weather). The following is a sample West Buttress itinerary:

Day 1: Land at Base Camp
Day 2: Rest day to organize gear and practice crevasse rescue
Day 3: Move to 7,800 ft camp
Day 4: Move to 9,500 ft camp
Day 5: Move to 11,000 ft camp
Day 6: Rest day
Day 7: Ferry loads to 14,200 ft camp, return to 11,000 ft camp
Day 8: Move to 14,200 ft camp
Day 9: Rest day
Day 10: Ferry loads to 17,200 ft camp, return to 14,200 ft
Day 11: Rest day
Day 12: Move to 17,200 ft camp
Day 13: Summit day
Day 14: Descend to 11,000 ft camp
Day 15: Descend to base camp, fly out

Keep in mind that this itinerary does not factor in bad weather days when you will be tent-bound. Itineraries are also adjusted according to how quickly members of a team acclimatize to the altitude. Here is an actual itinerary from a 1996 expedition:

June 25: fly into base camp, weather closes in before entire team makes it into camp
June 26: rest of team flies into base camp
June 27: logistics day and crevasse rescue practice
June 28: Move to 7,800 ft camp
June 29: Move to 9,500 ft camp; storm moves in
June 30: Bad weather day
July 1: Move to 11,000 ft camp
July 2: Rest day
July 3: Ferry loads to 14,200 ft camp; return to 11,000 ft
July 4: Move to 14,200 ft camp in inclement weather
July 5: Rest day
July 6: Ferry loads to 16,000 ft; return to 14,200 ft
July 7: Move to 16,000 ft camp
July 8: Move to 17,200 ft camp
July 9: Bad weather day
July 10: Summit day; storm moves in as summit is reached
July 11: Descend to 14,200 ft camp in inclement weather, 70 knot winds
July 12: Move to 7,800 ft camp in bad weather, total whiteout
July 13: Bad weather day
July 14: Move to base camp, fly out, get drunk at Fairview Inn

OTHER ROUTES

The KARSTENS RIDGE/MULDROW GLACIER was the route of first ascent and used to be the standard route before Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route. This route is similar in difficulty as the West Buttress, but receives far less traffic. Expeditions are, on average, a week longer than West Buttress trips because of the longer approach from Wonder Lake. More adventurous climbers will attempt �the Traverse�, by ascending the West Buttress and descending Karstens Ridge or vice versa. The Traverse is more strenuous than doing either route alone because climbers must haul all equipment and supplies over Denali Pass whereas climbers doing one route or another typically cache equipment and supplies that are not needed higher up on the mountain.

For some Denali afficionados, the WEST RIB is the next step after completing the West Buttress or Karstens Ridge, but it represents a pretty big step up in skill and experience. The route involves moderate to steep snow as well as mixed snow and rock. Like the West Buttress, many climbers underestimate the West Rib and most of its accidents are attributed to inexperience or overconfidence. Many perceive the West Rib as tame because it is relatively easy to retreat from if they find themselves in over their heads. This does not mean that the climbing itself is easy.

Climbers completing the CASSIN RIDGE find themselves in a small fraternity of elite Alaska climbers. The route ascends the prominent ridge on the 8,000 foot south face that ends a few hundred yards west of the summit. It is steep, demanding, and committing. As a result, frivolous accidents are rare on the Cassin Ridge because only the most experienced climbers will think of attempting it.

Getting There

Talkeetna is the main staging area for climbing most routes on Mt. McKinley and its neighboring peaks. Anchorage International Airport is the nearest commercial airport. From the airport, it is a two hour drive to Talkeetna. Limited supplies and equipment are available in Talkeetna, so it is best to get most of your shopping done in Anchorage before heading out. Most climbers will take a shuttle operated either by Denali Overland (800-651-5221) or Talkeetna Shuttle Service (tshuttle@alaska.net or 888-288-6008). Cost runs from $75 to $290 one way depending on how many climbers you share the shuttle with.

You can also take the train from Anchorage to Talkeetna (www.akrr.com or 800-544-0552), or a plane (see below).

Climbing routes on the south side of McKinley require that you take a bush plane from Talkeetna to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. For a complete listing of bush plane services, see the National Park Service website. Cost of the flight is in the neighborhood of $500 round trip. The same services can also arrange to fly you from Anchorage to Talkeetna for an extra charge. Don't forget to keep your camera handy on the flight!

If you are climbing the Muldrow Glacier and wish to have your gear cached in advance of your arrival, contact Denali Dog Freight Expeditions (907-683-1008).

Red Tape

Cost of the permit from the NPS is $200 per person and requires at least a 60 day advance notice. Climbers who have attempted Mt. McKinley within five years of the application year can apply for a "7-day rule exemption" and apply no less than 7 days prior to the start of the climb. In order for an entire party to qualify for the 7-day rule, each member of the party must have climbed Denali within the past five years. Soloists must also fill out the "Supplemental Solo Form".

A deposit of $25 (per person) is due with the applications with the balance due at check-in. You must check in at the Talkeetna Ranger Station before departing for Base Camp and check out when you leave the mountain. The park rangers will question you about your mountaineering experience and strongly discourage you from going if they feel your experience is spotty. Details are listed on the NPS website or call the Talkeetna Ranger Station at (907) 733-2231.

Latrines are established at base camp and the 14,200 foot camp during the peak season. Climbers at the 17,200 foot camp must use Clean Mountain Cans (CMCs). At the rest of the camps, containerize human waste into biodegradable bags and throw them into the nearest crevasse.

All trash must be carried off the mountain. Climbers violating these rules will be fined and may be kicked off the mountain. If you decide to break these rules, be aware that the NPS rangers are not the only people looking for violations. Enough climbers want to see Denali kept pristine that they will not hesitate to snitch on violators.

If you have to be rescued off the mountain, you will likely be billed for the costs which can run into the tens of thousands of dollars. Rescue insurance or health insurance (if your rescue is a medical emergency) should cover the costs of the rescue. The park service monitors Channel 19 on CB radios. Cell phones also work well above 14,200 feet.

Guiding on McKinley requires that you must be affiliated with one of six authorized guide services. See the NPS website for a list of the guides. All six of these services are American and you may be hard-pressed finding a guide that speaks a language other than English or Spanish.

When To Climb

The normal climbing season is from late-April to mid-July with the most popular period from mid-May to late-June.

In general, the earlier you climb, the colder it will be high up on the mountain and the later you climb, the sloppier conditions will be on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier. Later in the season, many climbers opt to travel on the lower mountain during the evening hours when the snow is relatively firm. Denali veterans have said that the weather tends to be windy in May, stormy in July, and a mix of both in June. However, once you're on the mountain, you will find the weather to be more of a crapshoot than anything else.

Mountain Weather

Mount McKinley is located in the subpolar low, a region where arctic air moving from the north converges with warmer air moving from the south at a latitude of 60 degrees (Denali is located at 63 degrees). This convergence creates a belt of unstable weather at this latitude. Associated with the subpolar low is a semi-permanent area of low pressure known as the Aleutian Low, located in the vicinity of the Aleutian Islands. Weather systems generated or passing through the Aleutian Low often take a straight path for the Alaska Ranges and hit Mt. McKinley with little warning. Mt. McKinley also has a reputation for streaky weather with long periods of continuous bad weather or more rarely, long periods of good weather. This explains why inexperienced, clueless climbers may reach the summit while veteran climbers die on its slopes.

As a result of its proximity to the Aleutian Low, the weather on Denali is unlike the weather on any other major mountain in the world. Extreme cold is another hallmark of Denali�s weather and temperatures routinely fall to -40 F (-40 C). Unfamiliarity with McKinley�s weather is an underlying cause of many accidents, particularly among climbers who view the mountain as �just another prize in the trophy case� or as a warm-up for Mt. Everest. Weather patterns generally fall under the following categories:

HIGH WINDS. Mt. McKinley undergoes long periods of clear skies and high winds, and these conditions are most often seen during early part of the climbing season (April and May). During these periods, many of the mountain slopes are swept clean of snow leaving behind solid blue ice and testing the cramponing skills of even the most experienced climbers. Denali Pass and the upper part of the West Rib are especially notorious sites for accidents when these conditions occur.

During such weather, many climbers are lulled by the clear skies into going for the summit. However, these winds routinely exceed 100 mph and have been known to pick climbers up and throw them down the slopes. Windstorms often come with little if any warning and are thus amongst the most feared weather patterns on the mountain. The first signs of increasing high winds are the appearance of lenticular cloud caps over the summit. Many of the accidents in 1992, Denali�s deadliest year, occurred during such a weather pattern.

LOW PRESSURE SYSTEMS FROM THE GULF OF ALASKA. These are the cyclonic weather systems that sweep in from the southwest and vary in intensity, the strongest of which have been described as hurricanes that dump snow. During the more powerful storms, it is generally unsafe to be above 14,000 feet. Fortunately, climbers usually have at least 12 hours warning before such a storm hits and the park service does a good job of informing those who don�t heed the mare�s tails in the sky. Such a weather system was responsible for the single deadliest accident on the mountain which claimed the lives of seven climbers on the Karstens Ridge route in 1967.

LOW LEVEL MOISTURE. This occurs when warm, moist air migrates inland from the Pacific Ocean and creates a period of steady drizzle in the lowlands. During these periods, the top of the cloud layer occurs between 10,000 and 14,000 feet and conditions above these altitudes may be quite good. At other times, skies above 14,000 feet will be clear, but windy. Conditions on the lower mountain, however, tend to get sloppy and may even experience periods of rainfall and whiteout.

�GOOD WEATHER�. Days in which there is not a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind are rare on Mt. McKinley. Instead, good weather is when winds are blowing at less than 10 knots and precipitation is limited to a snow squall here and there. Many amateurs unfamiliar with Denali�s weather may misinterpret this kind of weather as marginal or a prelude to a big storm.

One should not think that from these descriptions, weather on Denali will easily fall into one of the above four categories. Instead, the distinctions between these four patterns fall into a thousand different shades of gray. Other weather patterns occur that do not fall into these categories. For example, low pressure systems may descend from the north from the Arctic Ocean. Because these storms approach from the north, they may catch climbers on the West Buttress by surprise. Even the most experienced veterans have a difficult time forecasting the weather, but for amateurs unfamiliar with subpolar weather, reading Denali�s weather can be more akin to rolling the dice.

Mountain Conditions

On the web:

National Park Service annual climbing reports

On the mountain:

Some climbers will bring transistor radios to catch radio stations from Anchorage. The Base Camp radio operator also issues a nightly report on the CB radio (Channel 19). CB radios can be rented from one of the air services, but contact them in advance of your arrival.

External Links

A personal site with pictures, video and stories about climbing big mountains around the world. Mountains include Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Denali, Grand Teton, Longs and more.
A personal site with pictures, video and stories about climbing big mountains around the world. Mountains include Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Denali, Grand Teton, Longs and more.
Personal site of several expeditions.
In this album you'll find various photographs from our Denali 2000 mountaineering expedition, and several diaries from 2 different mountain expeditions, including Aconcagua.
mountain guide
technical expeditions with a french mountain guide around the world
www.7summits.com
Denali is one of the 7 summits. Check out info and sign up for the friendly priced 2003 Denali climb.
Camp on Kahiltna Glacier, Denali.
Mid April camp on Kahiltna Glacier, Denali NP.
What a view!
Don Holmes looking toward the North Face of Mt.Foraker from 17k camp on Denali in 1983.
A successful international expedition to the West Buttress during June 2001.
Forget-me-not Denali 2002
Czech climbing expedition
Czech Climbing Expedition Forget-me-not Denali 2002
Denali Climb, July 2001 A knee bending experience!
Swedish denali expedition 2004
We are planing a expedition to denali, follow the planing and expedition on this page. Under construction at the mom
Climb Mount McKinley With NorthWind Adventures
Climb the west buttress route with NorthWind Adventures.
Date: June 6 to June 28 2004
Cost: $3000
Please call 1-250-399-4474
Dutch Denali Expedition 1999
This is the story of the successful Dutch Denali Expedition (DUDE) in 1999. Our team consisted of three friends Joris de Wit. Remko de Lange and myself Jan Wuite.
Zeitcam.com
Time-lapse movie of Mt. McKinley Web Cam and other mountain Web cams.

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