Power Cams

 

Page Type Gear Review
Object Title Power Cams
Manufacturer Metolius
Page By GuitarWIzard
Page Type Jun 11, 2002 / Jun 11, 2002
Object ID 359
Hits 2312
Vote
Updated for 2001--a smaller cam angle for greater outward force plus a larger cam surface for greater friction create greater holding power

Durable, flexible, stainless-steel cable body with long-wearing TeflonĀ® trigger slides are lightweight, strong and allow easy placement
Split-wire triggers with knurled trigger bars allow you to use one, two or three fingers--or even gloved hands
Thick cams of super-durable 7075-T6 aluminum feature logarithmic spiral for increased holding power throughout the cam's active range
Radiused teeth increase durability and holding power
Bar-tacked nylon slings are color-coded for quick, easy identification
Individual cam sizes generously overlap one another to insure the right size can be found
Available in 12 sizes; see specifications listed below for model
# / range / strength / weight / color:
00 / 9.52-14.6mm / 4.4kN / 59.53g / grey
0 / 10.54-16.64mm / 4.4kN / 62.37g / purple
1 / 12.45-19.68mm / 8kN / 70.87g / blue
2 / 15.37-24.89mm / 8kN / 73.71g / yellow
3 / 18.41-27.94mm / 13kN / 85.05g / orange
4 / 23.5-35.56mm / 13kN / 93.55g / red
5 / 27.43-42.55mm / 13kN / 99.22g / black
6 / 33.4-52.07mm / 13kN / 110.6g / green
7 / 40.64-64.01mm / 13kN / 141.5g / light blue
8 / 49.53-77.98mm / 13kN / 198.4g / lavender
9 / 59.69-94.49mm / 13kN / 283.5g / maroon
10 / 73.66-115.6mm / 13kN / 311.8g / navy

Made in USA.

Reviews


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hammesrb - Oct 11, 2002 9:12 am - Voted 5/5

Untitled Review
These cams work great for smaller cracks. I prefer to use power cams up to size 6 (green) and then use Camalots for larger sizes. Power cams don't walk as much as other cams seem to and cover a lot of rock surface.

Dow Williams - Jun 28, 2005 1:18 pm - Voted 5/5

Untitled Review
They upgraded these full range cams with a "Range Finder" system (color coded heads), great for new leaders. Had all my gear stolen in Vegas and got a full set of these. I had the choice between this and the Black Diamond Camalots and prefer these triggers more.



They have a smaller cam angle for greater outward force yet a larger cam surface for better friction.



As of June, 2005, they are on sale at REIOutlet.com

Dan Dalton - Feb 2, 2007 10:11 pm - Voted 5/5

Very easy placement.
This was my first type of cam and I must say, I am really impressed. I now have many Friends, BDs and other cams, but in tight situations always rely of these guys. Superb placement and well designed trigger make this a great addition to any rack.

Dan

glahhg - Apr 8, 2007 1:48 pm - Voted 3/5

Don't like 'em
I don't like these things. Their range seems to suck and they're easy to get stuck (in my experience). None of my friends carry them.

AltitudeSickness - Jan 6, 2008 11:51 pm - Voted 5/5

Range Finder Rules
I know all of my fellow climber swear by the BD cams. The number one thing that keeps me coming back to the Metolius cams is the fact that they can be retracted with just one finger to get the placement. Secondly at least for me I love the range finder feature because I am super sensitive about not only my placements but the placements done by those I am climbing with so this helps me to be comfortable about the strength of the set. I know it's all about the comfort level, but Metolius has shown that these cams are strong and hold fast when fallen on.

mrauthentic616rm2 - May 6, 2008 1:44 pm - Voted 5/5

Awesome...
everyone likes the BD cams, but I agree with AltitudeSickness. The metolius cams retract with just one finger and you dont have to worry about the cam lobes going janky one you. Great for fast quick placements, courtesy of the colored dots. The only cam I will place blind.

stepho - Apr 17, 2009 10:16 pm - Voted 5/5

great cams although not the best of all
I got a couple of the smaller power cams since I got a really good deal on them and I am real happy with them although I like the BD cams better.

Viewing: 1-7 of 7