I'd like to recommend that description on Sverdina's page that you linked to. It describes the Wiley Ridge approach very well, we used it for our ascent.
Hi Noah, awesome page! I'd like to emphasize that there are two peaks for Fury, the East and the West. Both your ascent and my own are of the East Peak. The West Peak is very rarely climbed, as it's reported to take a full day to get there and back from the summit of the East Peak, on a long, convoluted ridge of scrambling and low 5th class.
I don't want to diminish from our accomplishments on the East Peak, rather I want to point out that there is an additional challenge here regarding Fury, that just increases the grandeur of this mountain.
I believe the West Peak has the same elevation, so it wouldn't be important from a peak-bagging sense. I'd be interested in any pictures of that peak, somewhat shrouded in mystery!
Great point! I hope that people will continue to submit info on that other peak. I am only a hack compared to the hard core guys who do both peaks. If you know someone who did both, have them submit some beta or photos. Thanks again for the good addition. - Noah
Nah, it is just something to do next time you get back in there, I'll bet it would be simulclimbing terrain the whole way - just longer than heck. We actually camped right on the summit, so had we been less keen to press on to the south, we could have made a "day trip" over to that summit and back. Alas, hindsight is 2020 :D.
There _are_ other ways that don't require tagging east peak, they are just awaiting first ascents. :)
Great write-up. It is beyond cool to me that you would call the route that Alan Fries and I first climbed back in 1975 the "Standard direct route". Wow! Since we didn't have any iron protection with us at the time (just soft stuff), that step was a major obstacle. What you don't say is that it is incredibly exposed in both the North and South sides. Alan told me to jump to the North if he fell on the South side and to the South if he fell to the North. After sweating a pint, Alan made the crux and we scrambled up to the summit, tagging point 7850 on the way. We were the 26th accent of East Fury and the original piece of paper with the names of the first accent party (the Ptarmigan Climbing club from the 1930s) was still there.
mvs - Feb 6, 2006 5:42 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentI'd like to recommend that description on Sverdina's page that you linked to. It describes the Wiley Ridge approach very well, we used it for our ascent.
mvs - Feb 6, 2006 5:47 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentHi Noah, awesome page! I'd like to emphasize that there are two peaks for Fury, the East and the West. Both your ascent and my own are of the East Peak. The West Peak is very rarely climbed, as it's reported to take a full day to get there and back from the summit of the East Peak, on a long, convoluted ridge of scrambling and low 5th class.
I don't want to diminish from our accomplishments on the East Peak, rather I want to point out that there is an additional challenge here regarding Fury, that just increases the grandeur of this mountain.
I believe the West Peak has the same elevation, so it wouldn't be important from a peak-bagging sense. I'd be interested in any pictures of that peak, somewhat shrouded in mystery!
Noah (Oregon) - Feb 7, 2006 3:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentGreat point! I hope that people will continue to submit info on that other peak. I am only a hack compared to the hard core guys who do both peaks. If you know someone who did both, have them submit some beta or photos. Thanks again for the good addition. - Noah
mvs - Feb 7, 2006 5:33 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNah, it is just something to do next time you get back in there, I'll bet it would be simulclimbing terrain the whole way - just longer than heck. We actually camped right on the summit, so had we been less keen to press on to the south, we could have made a "day trip" over to that summit and back. Alas, hindsight is 2020 :D.
There _are_ other ways that don't require tagging east peak, they are just awaiting first ascents. :)
anthony_mendoza - Mar 26, 2018 9:04 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks MattGreat write-up. It is beyond cool to me that you would call the route that Alan Fries and I first climbed back in 1975 the "Standard direct route". Wow! Since we didn't have any iron protection with us at the time (just soft stuff), that step was a major obstacle. What you don't say is that it is incredibly exposed in both the North and South sides. Alan told me to jump to the North if he fell on the South side and to the South if he fell to the North. After sweating a pint, Alan made the crux and we scrambled up to the summit, tagging point 7850 on the way. We were the 26th accent of East Fury and the original piece of paper with the names of the first accent party (the Ptarmigan Climbing club from the 1930s) was still there.
Matt Lemke - Dec 25, 2018 7:37 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Thanks MattOh yeah that was a fun little climb for sure! It's definitely the way to do if you don't have crampons or boots like we did.