4 pitches can get you to the top of the Black Tower. Bypass the first set of belay bolts on P3, continue to the second set 60m out. Another 60m reaches the top of the Black Tower.
If hauling a pack (second climbs with it on the easy pitches) clip the haul rope through the last protection bolt before the top of the Black Tower. This will allow the leader to haul the pack to there without it getting jammed in the chimneys. Leader ties off pack when it reaches bolt, and belays second up. Second frees pack and off you go.
From the top of the Black Tower, it is possible to link the next three (Swain) pitches with a 60m rope. Due to the several traverses on this bit, you will run out of rope unless you employ liberal use of slings to shorten the rope path.
At the end of the last 5.9 pitch, shorten the rope and simul-climb to the end of the technical difficulties, placing enough pro that you are never simul-soloing. this section is mostly 4th class with a very few easy 5th class moves.
I think the fastest time isn't accurate. Josh Smith and I climbed Epinephrine in 5h 0m car-to-car, roped, without simulclimbing until the 4th class at the top, in 11/2009.
I'm sure people have been faster than us though.
brutus of wyde - Jun 26, 2005 4:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Route Comment4 pitches can get you to the top of the Black Tower. Bypass the first set of belay bolts on P3, continue to the second set 60m out. Another 60m reaches the top of the Black Tower.
If hauling a pack (second climbs with it on the easy pitches) clip the haul rope through the last protection bolt before the top of the Black Tower. This will allow the leader to haul the pack to there without it getting jammed in the chimneys. Leader ties off pack when it reaches bolt, and belays second up. Second frees pack and off you go.
From the top of the Black Tower, it is possible to link the next three (Swain) pitches with a 60m rope. Due to the several traverses on this bit, you will run out of rope unless you employ liberal use of slings to shorten the rope path.
At the end of the last 5.9 pitch, shorten the rope and simul-climb to the end of the technical difficulties, placing enough pro that you are never simul-soloing. this section is mostly 4th class with a very few easy 5th class moves.
Brutus
gbperkins - Dec 3, 2010 9:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Fastest Known AscentI think the fastest time isn't accurate. Josh Smith and I climbed Epinephrine in 5h 0m car-to-car, roped, without simulclimbing until the 4th class at the top, in 11/2009.
I'm sure people have been faster than us though.
cabeaux - Mar 9, 2018 10:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Honnold Claims Fastest AscentOn his Instagram account, Honnold claims he just climbed Epinepherine in 39:50 today. Sounds about right. For him, anyway.