Northeast Ridge, Mt. Triumph

Northeast Ridge, Mt. Triumph

Shirley rapping back to the notch. This rap goes free air for a short bit just above the notch. This is our 2nd rappel from the top - descent sequence went something like: belayed downclimb for c. 160 feet; one single 60m rap; short belayed downclimb; one double 60m rap (single would've sufficed I think) to the notch followed by more crazy mix of above procedures.... Heather ledges (beginning) can be seen left and above the notch. These - though they don't look it - I think are the mental crux of the route. Try the climb and see why (July 25, 2004).
rpc
on Jul 26, 2004 4:52 pm
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 62239

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Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jul 26, 2004 4:58 pm - Voted 10/10

Do you climb up here?

Looks kind of steep. Is this where you went up too? Nice pics, looks like a fun climb.

rpc

rpc - Jul 26, 2004 5:09 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Do you climb up here?

Thanks Martin.

The "standard" Northeast Ridge goes into the notch and then left up a crappy ledge system (dirty) to reach "heather ledges". These are probably no more than class 4 or 5 but there's really no pro, it's all downward sloping, dirty and crumbly. I have seen a TR on the web (mountainwerks.org) where they went right out of the notch and climbed the steep face (straight ahead, the face out of the notch is overhung; to the right it's just high angle).

mvs

mvs - Jul 1, 2008 7:10 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Do you climb up here?

Right. Go on the right side of the notch a little bit and climb up. It's just 5.6 or so, and clean. I didn't even know that the proper way was to go around the left side!

rpc

rpc - Jul 1, 2008 12:34 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Do you climb up here?

this was a spectacular outing & I recall reading a TR by some guy named Michael S...omething I can't quite recall before we went up :)

mvs

mvs - Jul 1, 2008 3:48 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Do you climb up here?

Haha! I did a google search on "mountainwerks" and your comment came up. I thought, oh, I'd better confirm that straight up the ridge does work! I'm kind of a busybody...:p

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