Northeast Buttress Additions and Corrections

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jacobsmith

jacobsmith - Feb 10, 2013 2:13 am - Voted 4/10

Pitch number and gear issues

admittedly, conditions vary but having now climbed this route i must disagree strongly with both your description of the pitches and the gear requirements described. for one, there are no fifth or sixth pitches, that angle of snow is comparable to class 2-3 rock, which no one would pitch out, secondly, i do not believe that your pitch 3 (our pitch 2) would qualify as AI3, even if the snow we encountered was substituted with alpine ice, the angle was simply to low, maybe AI2 under perfect conditions. secondly, as for your gear recommendations, i question the wisdom of giving such specific information on a page for a route that will be different for each group that climbed it, so instead of describing what your group used, maybe you could just say, pitons, small nuts and cams, ice screws of various lengths depending on conditions (as per my experience, the route is climbable using a grand total two pitons, two ice screws, and a picket, although of course we brought more).

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