"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."
--Ernest Hemingway
© 2006-2021 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.
bluescrummachine - Aug 25, 2006 12:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2006
Normal RouteWe walked/climbed to the glacier camp (camp 1) within three days from Musho via basecamp and the moraine camp. From camp 1 we started at about 6 a.m. to reach La Garganta (~5900m, camp 2). Before the canaletta we installed a aluminum ladder to cross a bigger crevasse. Reached camp 2 between 9 and 10 a.m. The next morning, we started the final climb at about 3:30 a.m. and reached the Norte-summit around 9 o'clock. From summit only limited view.
Overall good conditions: particularly knee-deep snow, relatively mild (for Huascaran-conditions ;-)) - no cold wind. Had luck with the weather. Back at camp 2 before noon. Would have liked to climb Sur, but too much effort and risk (if not even impossible) to get to the summit even on Normal-route of Sur. The weather deteriorated considerably during the next days. Next day after summit direct descent to basecamp and the next day back to Musho/Huaraz.