Wow, watching that video brought a chill to my spine. I would have turned around sooner than you guys did! It was too much like Toll. Nothing wrong with a Rio marg at noon. Up, no salt, please.
Great report !!! Has anyone ever gotten to the true summit of the Nokhu's from the top of that couloir ??? The North Ridge is the only route I know about. I tried to climb from Lake Agnes 2 times before I figured out getting to the summit would require lots of nasty climbing on rotten rock, with lots of exposure and very little good pro. Seems like you'd have the same kind of climbing from the top of that couloir.
I'm not sure if anybody's ever done it, but both Ormes and Roach say don't even bother trying. Do you know if anybody has ever done the north ridge direct (i.e. trying to stay on the skyline of the north ridge instead of climbing up the gullies)? From the east it looks quite spectacular - too bad the rock is so rotten.
Yes, it is too bad about the rock ... it's such a spectacular peak, but given the quality of the rock any technical climbing would take masochism to new heights.
mauri pelto - May 21, 2006 10:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Good lesson
Your description of the conditions provides a good snapshot for snow that is prone to wet snow avalanching, that we all can think back. Particularly as the heat of the day generates a greater water saturation.
Seems like ol' Andy always manages to find his way to the front page of SP. In fact, he is the only member to ever have his picture featured in two places on the front page at the same time (in Sept 05).
Anyway, good report. I'm glad you guys bailed and sounds like some good decision making going on.
That barrage of slides would have silenced me too! I've been noticing super soft snow on all south and east facing stuff this spring really early in the morning, 9am and such. Not meant to be, I guess...the other aspects have been solid. Thanks for the awesome report!
Nelson - May 18, 2006 11:05 pm - Voted 10/10
Chills and MargsWow, watching that video brought a chill to my spine. I would have turned around sooner than you guys did! It was too much like Toll. Nothing wrong with a Rio marg at noon. Up, no salt, please.
Mountain Jim - May 19, 2006 1:58 am - Voted 10/10
CuriousGreat report !!! Has anyone ever gotten to the true summit of the Nokhu's from the top of that couloir ??? The North Ridge is the only route I know about. I tried to climb from Lake Agnes 2 times before I figured out getting to the summit would require lots of nasty climbing on rotten rock, with lots of exposure and very little good pro. Seems like you'd have the same kind of climbing from the top of that couloir.
Andy - May 19, 2006 3:06 am - Hasn't voted
Re: CuriousI'm not sure if anybody's ever done it, but both Ormes and Roach say don't even bother trying. Do you know if anybody has ever done the north ridge direct (i.e. trying to stay on the skyline of the north ridge instead of climbing up the gullies)? From the east it looks quite spectacular - too bad the rock is so rotten.
Mountain Jim - May 19, 2006 3:19 am - Voted 10/10
Re: CuriousYes, it is too bad about the rock ... it's such a spectacular peak, but given the quality of the rock any technical climbing would take masochism to new heights.
mauri pelto - May 21, 2006 10:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Good lessonYour description of the conditions provides a good snapshot for snow that is prone to wet snow avalanching, that we all can think back. Particularly as the heat of the day generates a greater water saturation.
Alan Ellis - May 23, 2006 4:07 pm - Voted 10/10
Good report and photo...Seems like ol' Andy always manages to find his way to the front page of SP. In fact, he is the only member to ever have his picture featured in two places on the front page at the same time (in Sept 05).
Anyway, good report. I'm glad you guys bailed and sounds like some good decision making going on.
Travis Atwood - May 23, 2006 7:11 pm - Voted 10/10
Great reportNice work Andy. I especially liked the video. Good call on turning around. Live to climb another day.
Big Skies 808 - May 24, 2006 7:01 am - Hasn't voted
Wet AviesThat barrage of slides would have silenced me too! I've been noticing super soft snow on all south and east facing stuff this spring really early in the morning, 9am and such. Not meant to be, I guess...the other aspects have been solid. Thanks for the awesome report!
batesville - Mar 26, 2007 4:31 pm - Voted 9/10
nice lesson/reporti hope my judgement will be that as clear in those situtations